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Dawn Patrol 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Snyder, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on Aug 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The right-most line of bolts up the arete then win...

Description 

Step off the rock shelf platform onto the arete and climb the 5.8 Suits and Boots skipping the ring anchor to clip the 6th bolt instead. Negotiate a tricky 5.12 section to reach two decent pockets and the 7th bolt. Climb straight up into the gray rock and the scoop to find a great stem over to a giant knife blade feature. Milk this rest then work the stem a couple moves until you are forced to leave it and commit to the steep face. A dynamic move is well protected but the belayer must be attentive because the rock wall behind you is close. One more strenuous sequence is rewarded with enormous jugs to clip the anchor. This route is one of the best I've ever bolted. A must do!!!

Location 

The right arete on the Cobra Pillar winding up the inside back of the feature.

Protection 

11 bolts and a sporty clip and lower anchor


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By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2015

Powerful overhanging climbing. Detached pillar flake thingy that you can cop a rest on takes away from the climbing a bit. Skip it for full value and an increase in difficulty....
By Michael Hauss
From: Seattle, Washington
Jun 30, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The first "12a" section felt harder than that. Awesome route, very powerful.
By lech
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Small holds for the angle and not all of them are facing the right way. The book claims a dyno is involved but I don't know where this was supposed to be at. The stem gives a good rest with a knee bar optional. Good technical steep climbing and it just looks awesome.

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