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Dauphin Narrows

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Dauphin Narrows Bouldering 
South Buttress (Linoy Buttress) 

Dauphin Narrows Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.352, -76.9151 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,113
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kyle Stapp on Jun 7, 2013
Forecast:
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Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Somewhere at the Dauphin Narrows in the 80's.

Description 

Aka Second Mountain. Along the 322, just South of Dauphin, PA are two prominent buttresses named North Buttress and South Buttress (aka Linoy Buttress). The North Buttress has looser rock, some routes, but rarely if ever climbed upon. The bulk of the established routes are on the Southern buttress. This place is unique because you can/will climb through different layers of rock, different stone types. I've heard this place called a blend between the Gunks and Eldo Canyon, Colorado. Ill let you decide for yourself.

It is HIGHLY recommended you wear a helmet because there is loose rock. Some parties also bring radios because sometimes the traffic noise makes communication hard.

This place offers the rare (to PA) opportunity to multi-pitch "adventure" climb. There are numerous multi-pitch routes. Albeit routes were being established back in the 70s and has some fine, fun lines, it isn't climbed on that often any more (maybe that'll change?). Probably due to previous access issues.

This place is OPEN however consider it ACCESS SENSITIVE please! Your interactions with the locals, with the railroad companies do matter! Don't be "that guy" that fudges our sensitive access up.

Getting There 

On Second Mountain. From the 322 get off on the 443/Fishing Creek Valley Rd, head away from the river (East) and turn immediately onto Cemetery Rd. Follow this until its end and park in one of the pull offs or pull just off the road. People do live here PLEASE DO NOT block this road in any way. The railroad company commonly has their engineers/conductors/crew picked up here plus it is still a residential neighborhood.

Climbing Season

For the South Central PA area.

Weather station 6.1 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dauphin Narrows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dauphin Narrows:
Metamorphosis   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   South Buttress (Linoy Buttr...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dauphin Narrows

Featured Route For Dauphin Narrows
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of Metamorphisis.

Metamorphosis 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Pennsylvania : South Central PA : ... : South Buttress (Linoy Buttr...
A wonderfully fun climb. The second pitch is the "money" pitch for sure. P1 - climb straight up (make your way up) to a two bolted belay that sits just below the overhanging rock. P2 - you start immediately pulling the first overhang (protected by a bolt) and climb straight up through two vertical sections to the top. There is a large evergreen +/-15ft back from the cliffs edge (probably slung with webbing but don't count on it!) to belay and rappel from.Use your best judgement for the descent. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Pennsylvania

Photos of Dauphin Narrows Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Heel-A-Peel  Sometime in the 80's
Heel-A-Peel Sometime in the 80's
Rock Climbing Photo: Gotta love the experience of the view.
Gotta love the experience of the view.
Rock Climbing Photo: Odysseus roof boulder. There is some fun boulderin...
Odysseus roof boulder. There is some fun boulderin...

Comments on Dauphin Narrows Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kyle Stapp
Administrator
From: Pennsylvania
Jun 11, 2013
Do not assume there will be rappel stations (chains, bolts, webbing/cord, etc.) ready for you. On every route be prepared to create your own rappel setup or take it to the top and walk off, etc.

Thank you!
By Jake Cramer 1
From: State College, PA
Apr 20, 2017
Looks like that link is broken, anyone know where I might be able to find the guide?
By Kyle Stapp
Administrator
From: Pennsylvania
Apr 20, 2017
I have an earlier version of Eric Beyeler's guidebook in PDF form. If you would like a copy PM me and I will e-mail it to you.

There is no way currently for me to upload the PDF directly to Mtn Proj, it has to be a link to a Web Site where the document is housed. I do not have a Web Site to do that, so just PM me for the time being if you want a copy of the guidebook.

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