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King Otto's Castle
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Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 
Bridge, The T 
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Date Queen T 
Don Genaro Crack T 
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 
Leaving Las Vegas T 
Panama Red TR 
Phelp's Chevrolet T 
Plain But Good Hearted T 
Shaken Not Stirred T 
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 
Sweat Band T 
Sweat Pants T 
Tarawassie Wiggle T 
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 

Date Queen 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 952
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 8, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Another view. "Date Queen is the wide crack o...


The obvious wide crack that splits the right side of King Otto's Castle's south face is a good exercise in basic OW technique due to it's angle and some face holds outside the crack. A little short and grainy but you could do worse.


Right side of the south face between Plain But Good Hearted and Sweat Pants.


Gear to 4" (or larger if you feel the need)

Photos of Date Queen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun, relatively easy Offwidth
BETA PHOTO: Fun, relatively easy Offwidth

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By Bob Gaines
Feb 10, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A "fun" offwidth. Footholds on the left wall make it easier than it appears. A good entry level offwith for those so inclined.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jun 8, 2008

I agree with Bob on the 5.7 rating...
By Blitzo
Jan 16, 2010

Yeah, me too!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you have the gear, and are in the neighborhood.... why not? It gets larger than a #6 camalot after half way, so I'd recommend bringing at least one of that size.

For the anchor up top you'll want some #3 and #4 camalots.

Hard for me to grade these thingys, but I think calling it 5.7 might be a bit of a sandbag.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Feb 19, 2012

A nice entry level offwidth though I'd stay with the 7+ rating.
By Nick Hoffman
From: Toronto, Ontario
Jan 2, 2016

This was a really fun climb, and agree that it's a good introductory offwidth.

I only used C4 cams: two #4, a #5, and a #6 (excluding the anchor). Be careful when climbing above your #6. First, there're no more placements for the next ~4m. Second, your #6 might walk deeper into the crack, open, and become unretrievable.

The descent is a walk-off behind the route.

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