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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 
4 x 4 T 
4x20 T 
Carbondale Short Bus T 
Collision Course T 
Country T 
Crankcase T 
Dashboard Jesus T 
Destination Paris T 
Hookers 'n Blow T 
Hydraulic Pump T 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 
Knobby Tires T 
Lift Kit T 
Linkage T 
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 
Marshmallow Safari T 
Minute Lube T 
Monster Truck T 
Salt-Lake Special T 
scout T 
Take 10 T,TR 
Take 5 T 
Town T 
Tranny Trouble T 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 
Unknown OW T 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 
Variety Pack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dashboard Jesus 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: brandon gottung, wade plafcan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: swadeky on Oct 6, 2015

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This pitch is the 2nd pitch above the route Country. THe true 1st pitch of country is hardly done, we thought it was an FA but there are anchors is you follow the natural line above the 50 foot anchor on country, keep going up through off width stemming corner to where the #4 size crack angles sharp right. The 1st 2 bolt anchor is here.

Above this is Dashboard Jesus, a beautiful varnished splitter to right facing dihedral. This is a stunning line that gives you everything from offwidth pods to tight fingers at the top. The 2nd pitch we think is about 130 feet, but may go with a 70 to the country anchor. Bring a tag line to be sure though.

Location 

Follow the line above and right of Country

Protection 

Doubles, with either a 5 or 6 for the off width before the corner. 4-5 # 4 camelots would not go unused. After the corner is reached, the crack goes from hands down to blue metolius. A smaller piece before the anchor could be used as well.


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By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Dec 16, 2015

The first pitch, Brown and Crunchy, has awesome stems, the climbing gets better after the early anchor. Pitch two, Dashboard Jesus, is a beautiful varnished corner. The belay is comfortable, making it a great two pitch outing, both 5.10+.

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