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Darth Vader
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Caged, The S 
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Yoda S 

Darth Vader 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jay Lena 6/88
Page Views: 2,919
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Description 

A seldom climbed but fun route found a few feet left of Yoda. being trad protected and in the middle of the hotbed of sport climbing, it's no wonder why it sees less traffic. However, there are anchors at the top that you could easily set up a toprope on after leading Yoda.

Starting 10 feet left of Yoda in a corner.... Climb either straight up with stemming or out right and back to meet the nice fingers and hands crack. A little loose rock may be encountered, but over all, the route is quality, having the same over all feel as its popular neighbors without the bolts.

Another reason to bring a small rack to Rumney on a crowded day.

Darth Vadar is shown at 1:05

Location 

Just left of Yoda (5.9) on the left end of Darth Vader Crag....

Protection 

trad gear to anchor....


Photos of Darth Vader Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin OG jammin it
kevin OG jammin it
Rock Climbing Photo: me again... photo by mike t
me again... photo by mike t
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard pulling through the crux
Richard pulling through the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Devon. Climbing. Torie belays.
Devon. Climbing. Torie belays.
Rock Climbing Photo: torie. reaching. get it Kidd.
torie. reaching. get it Kidd.
Rock Climbing Photo: Too good for just one shot!
Too good for just one shot!
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie. Fall colors. Killer jams.
Torie. Fall colors. Killer jams.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Leading Darth Vader, Nicole Kurth leads Yoda i...
Lee Leading Darth Vader, Nicole Kurth leads Yoda i...
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin... flashing it
kevin... flashing it
Rock Climbing Photo: me... photo by mike
me... photo by mike
Rock Climbing Photo: Elin in the crux...
Elin in the crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: elin getting ready to TR this great route
BETA PHOTO: elin getting ready to TR this great route

Comments on Darth Vader Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2016
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 20, 2009

The low bolt is now gone, im just hoping some one didn't fall on it. The route can still be climbed, and reasonably protected by going right first and sneaking in a piece or two. As Lee says in the description, a TR can also easily be set up with a small traverse from the top of Yoda. Bring gear to extend the anchor over the lip as it is very abrasive rock up there
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

yes the bolt was removed because where the bolt was there is bomber trad placements merely inches above it, so the bolt didnt make much sense
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 21, 2009

yeah the bolt was silly... you could easily ground out with that thing clipped so it was not needed... as matt said the gear is fine...
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 25, 2009

Sounds good....thanks for the info
By bradley white
From: Bend
Jul 19, 2010

Huge loose rock was taken out of the lowest section during the climb on a cold day in early December, 1987 with Lee the Flea. It was quite an excavation to get to 'Darth Vader' crack. May the force be with you.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this for the first time today. Super fun movement through the flaring offwidth, and some engaging climbing above. too bad it's so short.
By Tom Gnyra
Administrator
Jul 22, 2014

good climbing with huge jugs throughout. a 0.5 C4 or a good nut protects the removed bolt portion. maybe removing the 1 bolt beta from the page would be good since there is none anymore.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 22, 2014

i changed it... forgot it was in there :) glad to hear this climb is getting some use!
By Michael Lund
Dec 14, 2015

Climbed it yesterday - scary bolt is back, definitely ground fall potential :)

Added .75 Camalot right above it and that felt much better. Fun climb!
By kemple sr.
Oct 23, 2016

I have climbed this route many times, both with and without the bolt. It is a nice option when the sport routes are busy. I think it is better with the bolt. I think the theory behind the bolt is to keep the leader under control if the block comes out. The pro is held in place by that block. Rumney has a history of good gear placements falling off and ending up at the base of the climb. Think Romancing the Stone. or Technical Second. In this case if the choss that you have to yard on to get into the v groove blows, so does the gear. It would leave the leader at best landing in the sharp boulders, and at worst landing on the belayer.

Some genius has bashed the heck out of the start of the climb. If you don't like it, don't clip it, but don't make a mess of things. The bolt isn't hurting you.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 24, 2016

A really nice route for sure. Also an ironic place for a bolt war seeing as Yoda a few feet to the right protects perfectly on gear and everyone seems to love those bolts.

Looks like you can still sling the bashed bolt if you wanted to. I never really clipped it, nor do I yank on the detached block. Climb gently, everybody keeps tearing perfectly good holds off the wall haha.
By ed esmond
Oct 25, 2016

"Also an ironic place for a bolt war seeing as Yoda a few feet to the right protects perfectly on gear and everyone seems to love those bolts. "

i don't think "ironic" is the right word….

there is a major difference between the two routes: Yoda was done as a first ascent with bolts. the FA'er got to make the decision about the bolts because he was the "first" ascentionist…

in the case of Darth Vader, the bolts were added much later (25+years later) after many, many ascents...

examined in that light, hopefully you'll see it's two completely different situations.

personally, i don't care if there is a bolt on this route or not.

i would not have added a bolt to the start of this route. it's not a "5 star- must do" route and it can be easily tr'ed after doing Yoda. that said, i also wouldn't have chopped the bolt either...

obviously, both persons involved felt strongly enough to take the actions they did. what isn't clear is if their actions were as well thought out as they should have been...

ed e
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 26, 2016

Just meant two routes side by side that take good gear... ironic may not be the right word "interesting" may be better. Anyone who's been in the sport a few years knows you don't bolt another persons trad route without permission. What to do about it is always the tricky part. in this case everyone loses but it's the rock I care about and it was the party who suffered the biggest loss, ugly.