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Dark West Face

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L to R R to L Alpha
Fools Progress, The S 
Journey Home, The T 
Katchina S 
Mud Head S 

Dark West Face Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 21, 2015
This Afternoon

42° | 31°

44° | 32°

41° | 30°

48° | 33°

54° | 37°

57° | 38°
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Wacking away on the first ascent


The Dark West Face is the obvious, large, west-facing crag. It is home to the area's original line, The Journey Home, as well as some moderate test-pieces, and the classic and colorful Fools Progress. Routes here are both single and multi-pitch and require a light rack for additional protection. Most routes were done in the traditional, ground-up fashion which is reflected in their adventurous nature, protection is adequate and bolts exist right where they are needed. A 60 meter rope will suffice on the Dark West Face, however a 70 meter is nice to have as it will drop you further down into the gully and land you closer to your packs.

The routes on the Dark West Face are surprisingly solid given its location, but are still cleaning up. The FA's did a great job clearing loose rock and cleaning the lines, but some loose pieces can still be expected so be sure to wear a helmet.

Getting There 

Follow the trail to Back of Beyond, and continue up the trail that ascends the gully to the base of the ridge. When the crag begins to open up, walk past the east-facing slab and look to the left (east). The routes here starts about 100 feet up from the actual toe of the ridge and are marked by at least one bolt at the beginning of each route.

Climbing Season

For the Big Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dark West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dark West Face:
The Journey Home   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
The Fools Progress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dark West Face

Featured Route For Dark West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful slab section of the 1st pitch of The...

The Fools Progress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Dark West Face
This is a two pitch route that starts in the gulley west of the ridge and joins The Journey Home at the beginning of its fourth pitch. PITCH ONE: Bolts and pins up a beautiful slab to a two bolt anchor on a mini ledge/alcove. PITCH TWO: Bolts and pins out a roof, up a thin face to and anchor on the "gangplank." This routes stays in the shade longer than The Journey Home...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

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