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Dark Tower
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 24 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Mike Engle, Vern Phinney |
Page Views: | 1,927 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Dave Rone on Sep 9, 2012 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Scramble up to the northwest edge of the formation to get to the start of the route. Climb up and right on large holds to the first bolt. From here, traverse right and up past two more bolts to gain the flake. The moves past the third bolt to the flake are a little thin.
Climb the flake until you reach a stance on the right hand side of the blade, where you can clip the next bolt. Climbing past this, and the next bolt are the crux of the climb. It's think it's the hardest 5.8 I've done! Both Black Hills Jim and I think it's closer to 5.10.
After the crux, clip a third bolt and continue to the summit. A single 60m rope will easily get you down to an easy scrable back to your stuff.
All in all a pretty cool route! Bolts were put in on lead so it has a little different flavor than the typical Rushmore sport route.
Climb the flake until you reach a stance on the right hand side of the blade, where you can clip the next bolt. Climbing past this, and the next bolt are the crux of the climb. It's think it's the hardest 5.8 I've done! Both Black Hills Jim and I think it's closer to 5.10.
After the crux, clip a third bolt and continue to the summit. A single 60m rope will easily get you down to an easy scrable back to your stuff.
All in all a pretty cool route! Bolts were put in on lead so it has a little different flavor than the typical Rushmore sport route.
4 Comments