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Dark Star 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mugs Stump
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Todd H on Aug 25, 2015

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  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Dark Star is a nice adventure pitch that packs in a variety of challenges in both the climbing and the protection. Start the same as Pandora, jamming and stemming your way up the left facing corner then move right onto the juggy slab. Continue up and right, passing below Pandora's first bolt, to follow cracks leading up the right side of the giant bulge. Smearing on somewhat crumbly rock and dodging guano makes this section more difficult than it appears from the ground. After reaching a good rest in a smattering of white rock, follow wild juggy cracks angling right out the roof to a fun mantel and the anchors. Great rock on the final third of the route. There is a bolt protected second pitch called Dark Star Too (.12a/b).


    Right-most route in the Tower One cave. Splits right from Pandora. Shelter from the Storm is the next climb to the right, around the corner.


    Doubles up to BD #1, single BD #3, and several slings. The line zigzags a lot so be careful of rope drag. Despite some awkward placements in the roof, Dark Star offers good pro where you need it. The anchor consists of two bolts and a pin, currently equalized with carabiners on a bunch of slings.

    Comments on Dark Star Add Comment
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    By Todd H
    From: Sandy, UT
    Aug 25, 2015

    I thought Dark Star felt much easier than Pandora and maybe slightly harder than Medussa but went with the grade in the book. It would be interesting to see a consensus develop on this one.
    Also, most of the tat at the anchor is crusty or bleached. Consider bringing up a knife and some new webbing, or better yet chains.
    By Roy Suggett
    Aug 25, 2015

    Stump was the MAN!

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