Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Mugs Stump
Page Views: 1,212 total · 12/month
Shared By: Todd H on Aug 25, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

Dark Star is a nice adventure pitch that packs in a variety of challenges in both the climbing and the protection. Start the same as Pandora, jamming and stemming your way up the left facing corner then move right onto the juggy slab. Continue up and right, passing below Pandora's first bolt, to follow cracks leading up the right side of the giant bulge. Smearing on somewhat crumbly rock and dodging guano makes this section more difficult than it appears from the ground. After reaching a good rest in a smattering of white rock, follow wild juggy cracks angling right out the roof to a fun mantel and the anchors. Great rock on the final third of the route. There is a bolt protected second pitch called Dark Star Too (.12a/b).

Location Suggest change

Right-most route in the Tower One cave. Splits right from Pandora. Shelter from the Storm is the next climb to the right, around the corner.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles up to BD #1, single BD #3, and several slings. The line zigzags a lot so be careful of rope drag. Despite some awkward placements in the roof, Dark Star offers good pro where you need it. Chains at the anchor.

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