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Dark Side of the Moon 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson & Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Sarah Meiser on Oct 4, 2015

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Description 

This is a squeeze crack that grows into a large chimney. Establish yourself in the #6 offwidth crack, and work your way upward (crux). Get inside when it widens into a chimney, and take advantage of numerous helpful features for your feet on the left wall. End in an obvious notch.

Location 

Dark Side of the Moon is the prominent chimney system several feet left of Eclipse. We found no anchor at the top of the climb. From the notch, it is possible to scoot right across a narrow, exposed ledge to reach the anchor atop Eclipse.

Protection 

Large cams and Bigbros are the only pieces that will protect the first 40 feet of this climb. We used a single blue Bigbro in addition to single #5 & #6 cams; anything less would likely be insufficient. Sans at least one Bigbro, the climb is R-rated. Hand-sized cams can be placed in a crack to the left to protect the upper portion.


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