REI Community
South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Than Bikinis T 
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 
Daffy's Shaft T 
Dark of the Moon S 
Duck A L'Orange T 
Duck Waddle Variation T 
Fool's Paradise S 
Frozen Stool T 
Great Grebes, Batman! T 
Hornet, The 
Pied-Billed Grebe S 
Playing In The Sun T 
Ruddy Duck T 
Sportsman's Paradise T 
Via Duck S 
Walking the Duck T 
Western Grebe T 
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 
Why a Duck? S 

Dark of the Moon 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Keller, Chris Begue 1995
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 16, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • On private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Dark of the Moon climbs the east-most, nicely bolted route from the base of the last pitch of Western Grebe. Solid slabbing, probably one of the best on the Peelers.


    8 draws for the route, and a small piece or two for the beginning. Two 60 meter ropes or one 70 for the rappel.

    Comments on Dark of the Moon Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By tenesmus
    Oct 1, 2005

    Just did Western Grebe to Fools Paradise to what I thought was Dark of the Moon. I've heard the topo in the Ruckman guide mislabeles it and it felt that way. It's a hard area to draw a topo for - with all the broken ledges. Don't know about the grade either. It seemed about right, but the pitches to get to it seemed soft. This was the best route we did, and I'd imagine one of the best on the Peeler. Kudos to Scott and Chris for putting in lots of bolts. I assume it was done on lead.

    This puts it at 8 bolts long with lots of long runners to keep drag down.
    By tenesmus
    Jun 11, 2006

    This route was put up by Scott Keller and Chris Begue and is the best protected 5.10 slab in the canyon. If it were in Green A it would be done every day it was dry and not scorching hot.
    By triznuty
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Oct 25, 2007
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    What an experience to do this climb in the Light of the Moon. The knobs and chickenheads are amazing.

    Don't worry, the second bolt is up there...

    Classic LCC slabbin!
    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Sep 4, 2008
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Easily one of the best slabs in the canyon. Steep, well bolted, killer setting.
    One 70m rope will barely make it down to the belay ledge. Watch the ends...
    To get off do a 2 ropes rap to the top of the 2nd pitch of Western Grebbe (straight down fool's paradise) then another one to the base.

    Edit: now goes with single 70m raps.
    By Crag Turkey
    From: Holladay, UT
    May 31, 2017

    Never climbed little cottonwood 10c slab clean until this route, likely due to the awesome chicken heads and reasonable bolts. lots of respect for the bolting effort on this, very well thought out. the position, chicken heads, lack of people and overall quality make this one of my favorite slab routes in the canyon. Usually slab pitches can feel like a means to an end, but this is totally worth the approach.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About