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Dark Knight 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Kevin Stricker, 9/12
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Rich Kelly on Mar 19, 2016

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Description 

Like the Dark Knight, there is a dark side to this climb: the runout between bolts 2-3. The climb starts up the black streak on loose looking rock that turns out to be solid. Bolt 2 protects a hard bulge (it can be done straight on or traverse right and up). Once past this, there is another tough move (again can be done straight on or to the right) to get to bolt 3. After bolt 4, protect it with cams, and pass one more challenging spot through a bulge.

Location 

This climbs the black streak behind a pine tree which is right of the roof the 5.12s goes through.

Protection 

4 bolts + handful of finger to 2" cams. There is a 2 bolt anchor on your right when you reach the top of the crack/groove.


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By Cody Goldberg
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Apr 14, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Climbed this a week ago for a booty bail biner in the whipping wind and chilly air. Brrrrr! Note: this route is 1.2x harder when you can't feel your fingers! I'm not sure what the description is talking about as far as runout between bolts. Seem pretty well spaced since the fall is steep and mostly safe minus the Vlad-the-Impaler tree. The real spice is pulling the bulges up top after a 20 ft runout. Bring your #1 and 0.75 (or offsets) to protect the upper bulge, then nuts suffice.

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