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Darby Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chubby Rain S 
Deep Dark Hole S 
Happy, Happy, Happy S 
Route O ("Red" Route) S 
Samsonite S 
Stemming for Dollars S 
Swedish Chest Thrust S 
Velvet Elvis S 
Wango Tango S 
Unsorted Routes:

Darby Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 43.6769, -111.0238 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,041
Administrators: WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 4, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Typical Darby canyon climbing.


Darby Canyon is a large canyon draining the West slope of the Tetons. It is most famous for a popular hike to a cave. Recently, a small but enjoyable crag has been developed featuring about 20 routes. This crag is definitely not a destination, but if you are in the area (or are a local) - it is worth a visit.

The climbing is on south facing limestone, and is in the sun until very late afternoon. Upon first hiking up the view is rather underwhelming - but the climbing is suprisingly enjoyable. The routes are short, but engaging, and require good technical slab climbing skills. Most climbs are in the 5.8-5.10 range.

Technically, this crag is in Wyoming (barely), but is accessed through Idaho so I've placed it in Idaho.

I've only climbed the routes listed - and the rock quality was generally good. There are another 10 climbs further right, which look good but have received less traffic - so I suspect they haven't cleaned up as much yet.

NOTE: All star ratings are relative to other routes on this wall, so take them with a grain of salt (or piece of limestone). Grades listed are my opinion, and they differ from some of the other published material.

Getting There 

Between Victor and Driggs (in eastern Idaho), turn East on 300 Street. You should immediately see a sign for Darby Canyon after you turn. Follow this until it ends, and turn right and follow the dirt road for about 2 miles into the canyon. Park at a turnout on the left with a Forest Service 034 sign. If you cross the creek on the road, you've gone too far. Hike up the main trail for a few minutes, and take the first trail on the right. This second trail is very well defined, so don't turn on any others accidentally. The second trail climbs up the ridge for a bit, and then cuts way right to the crags. It is about a 10-15 minute approach.

Climbing Season

For the East Idaho area.

Weather station 7.4 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Darby Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Darby Canyon:
Happy, Happy, Happy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   
Samsonite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Darby Canyon

Featured Route For Darby Canyon

Wango Tango 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Idaho : East Idaho : Darby Canyon
Cool route. Bouldery (and a little loose) off the ground. The roof is easier than it looks. Then up the engaging slab above. Lots of sidepulls keep it interesting up top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Idaho

Photos of Darby Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route K. 5.11 b/c
BETA PHOTO: Route K. 5.11 b/c
Rock Climbing Photo: The crag from below.
BETA PHOTO: The crag from below.
Rock Climbing Photo: From Left to Right -  E (5.9+) F (5.10-) G (5.7) H...
BETA PHOTO: From Left to Right - E (5.9+) F (5.10-) G (5.7) H...
Rock Climbing Photo: Typical Darby canyon climbing.
Typical Darby canyon climbing.

Comments on Darby Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Slaton Whatley
Jun 1, 2011
I just moved to Driggs for the summer. I haven't climbed regularly in about 4 months now so needless to say my lead head and strength aren't what they used to be. I am working super close to Darby Canyon and saw that there was one 5.7 in the area. I was curious if any of the other routes could be accessed either from the 5.7 or from the top to set up top ropes. Can anyone help me out on this?
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 17, 2012
I went and climbed most of the routes today. Pretty good area, better than it looks. Whoever posted this area on here clearly didn't refer to the "Sweet Spots" guide book, as most of the ratings are incorrect. Please refer to Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio's book for much more accurate info on these routes. Route J is not .10+, but rather .11c and route K is not .11a, but rather a pretty hard .11d. I'm not saying this out of hubris and pride, but only to inform the prospective climber of the actual difficulty of the routes. I've climbed all over the western US and they are much closer to the grades the book gives. Also, I noticed a lot of bail biners and I'm wondering if uniformed people are simply getting in over their heads.
By Dion Obermeyer
From: Springdale
Nov 9, 2014
There is a boulder up Darby canyon. Its a few min hike at the end of the road and looks like an A frame house. Does anyone know what it is?
By DCarey
From: Missoula
Mar 29, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Large boulder in Darby Canyon
Large boulder in Darby Canyon

Would this be it?

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