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Danzer Ged. Weg  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: A. Link 1954
Page Views: 22
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2015

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Kate preparing to leave the comfort of the big cor...

Description 

This timecapsule has good rock and some enjoyable moves at a moderate grade, but there are far more enjoyable climbs at this grade in the area. The climb follows a large right-facing corner to a big ledge, and then uses a hang flake to climb a steep face, before traversing hard right and around a corner. Climbed thusly, the rope drag is insane, but offers a glimpse into the state of the art when this was climbed at V, A1 in 1956. Bring double ropes, or better, go straight up from the hanging flake along a “new” line of bolts to reach an anchor at the top of the cliff (probably in the 5.10 range).

Location 

Begins up the big right-facing corner a few feet left of Kurze Acht (which has a plaque). The original line follows the path of least resistance in a long traverse across the upper face.

Protection 

Many bolts. The addition of a direct finish makes the original line somewhat confusing and completely contrived.


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