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Bighorn Mating Grotto
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Dangling Woo Li Master 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Craig Fry, Alan Roberts, Dave Evans, Margy Floyd & Kelly Carrignan, February 1985
Page Views: 5,871
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Dec 14, 2002

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Malynda looking way honed and gnarley and more imp...


Fun bouldery moves up steep blocky terrain lead to some fun wide angle stemming (the crux) and then to a finish in a hero's handcrack. A very fun route with cool moves. Despite how steep it is it isn't terribly pumpy as there are numerous no hands rests.


Small nuts and cams protect the first half with the second half and the anchor requiring hand sized gear.

Photos of Dangling Woo Li Master Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bighorn Mating Grotto
BETA PHOTO: Bighorn Mating Grotto
Rock Climbing Photo: Friend, Hogan, dancing through the fun stuff!
Friend, Hogan, dancing through the fun stuff!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb leads up on 'Dangling Woo Li Master' (10...
Tony Bubb leads up on 'Dangling Woo Li Master' (10...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike stems the lower section.
Mike stems the lower section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave starting up the blocky and fun moves of Dangl...
Dave starting up the blocky and fun moves of Dangl...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 13, 2016
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The route is pretty good, despite a few questionable holds down in the redish area of the climb prior to the crux. The crux sequence pro is a large cam (3.5") overhead to make a move and then a 2.5" piece which you pass just as you step left out ofthe crux sequence. These will seem a little lower than they are due to the long slings you will use to save rope drag.

Don't presume that this is a great route for the second to push their grade on- the belay is not really comforatable and also the route overhangs anough to call it "Dangling 5.9 Master." To avoid dangling, it is better to be a 5.10 master. It might be hard to protect the swing from the crux for the second and leave them in a tough spot to get back on the route.

The belay up top is a single bolt plus a good 3" piece. If you ask me, one hex or one cam will do top back up the bolt. Note that descent is to scramble up and 30 feet over to the climber's right side to reach an anchor where a single 60 M rope will just reach the ground. A 70M rope leaves plenty to spare.

5.10a seems about right grade J-tree.
By Josh Beck
Jan 7, 2003

The mid point of the climb / stemming crux stuff is can be protected pretty well with 1.5" gear, in a horizontal then above in a tight hand crack in the corner. There is also a horn you could sling and hang a truck from.

It is also easy to walk off from this climb, up and right 20' then back following the slabs gently down, then down a 4' step into a gully, then left down the gully and around to your packs at the bottom.

I agree this is not a great climb for a fledgling 5.10 climber, particularly on lead :)
By Steven Powers
Oct 6, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

to be totally honest i didnt enjoy this route as much as i thought i was going to, im not sure if it deserves all those stars. it wasnt a bad route but not an absolute classic one star for the climb and another for the location.
By Pax
Jan 3, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Gear beta: a #3.5 or 4 Camalot is a good idea for protecting the stemming crux. Someone mentioned that you can protect it with a 1.5" piece, but in order to get that piece in, you've already had to get high in the stem, so I don't think that is good beta. My rack would be: a #4, two or three #3s, two #2s, a 0.75, a 0.5, a couple of nuts down low, and long slings for down low and tying off a couple of horns.

Felt harder than 10a to me, even for JTree, and even on toprope. I thought it was harder than "Caught Inside on a Big Set" or whatever that 10b to the right is.

Fun route. It's the route I keep thinking about from my last trip to J Tree.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

interestingly, i found this to be tougher than the other two .10b's in the grotto- even thought i was on TR at the time. it's good fun, though, and the crux is even more so.

btw- i didnt notice a bolt up top, but again, i wasn't the leader.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 7, 2008

Great route; worth the hike.
By PumpkinEater
From: Sacramento
May 24, 2010

More unique than a lot of climbs in JT. If you're clever you get 3 (!) no hands rests. Find them and you are....a dangling woo-li master. Hint: one involves sitting on a ledge facing out! coooool.
By Phil Esra
Jan 5, 2011

Route was running water around Thanksgiving 2009--not sure if that's common or not, but the rock looks like it sees a lot of water (stained).
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 5, 2012

Pretty unique climbing for J Tree. Cool, overhanging, stemmy moves that could indeed be morphed into a martial arts sequence. Combined with the hero jam crack finish, Woo Li leaves little left to be desired. Three stars for the route and one more for the location.
By Chad Namolik
From: Three Rivers, CA
Feb 11, 2013

good route. this cool area is worth the approach. leading 10s solid and you can get a few good ones in.
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2016

Whatever you do, DO NOT climb the awful chimney out right like my partner did! It's basically 25' of beached-whaling over super-sketchy pro.

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