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Dangling in the Tournafortia 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Aaron Martin, Robert Newsom, Dan Shively, Mike Dewie - May 2005
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 30, 2017

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Five stars in the Marty Lewis guidebook.... This is a wild adventure with crazy exposure and crazier situations. I can't quite agree with the star rating given some fairly loose rock though - some of this may clean up with traffic; other bits might not. But if you're up for something that will test your trad mettle and leave you quivering with elation/terror, check this thing out. Oh, and mad props to the FA team for figuring this one out ground up... I wish I could have been there!

Note: Holds shade just slightly longer than other routes on the wall, but if you're trying this in the summer I still recommend an early start.

Begin at a level spot well below the start of the Silverback on a south-facing facet of the wall with a high bolt and wild looking thin flake up higher.

P1 (10c): Climb some chossy cracks to the first of several bolts. Follow these upwards (at some points stepping left of the bolt line). Skip the first anchor and continue out left across a corner to a hanging face and then left again to a wildly exposed corner on the arete. Belay at a second bolted anchor on a comfortable perch.

P2 (11a): Move up a chossy corner above the belay, working left across an initially tightly bolted face to the arete. At the last bolt perform a cruxy move and then run it out to a stance below the wild bomb bay chimney/roof system out left. Clip a pin with a very long runner and work left under the cramped roofs via hand jams and underclings to a stance up in the bowels of this bizarre chimney feature. Here climb up a finger crack (using a wedged, trapezoidal flake gingerly or not at all), then undercling like mad leftwards, stepping across the L-shaped "hatchet flake" before pulling up onto a slab and a bolted belay. Extend your belay down to the end of the undercling traverse to better communicate with your partner.

Rappel 30m to the anchor atop the Silverback, then 25m to the ground.


A single set of cammers from 0.3 to #3 Camalot. Extra 0.4 or 0.5 Camalots might be nice for the finger crack and undercling on P2 as the rock is a bit hollow there and it is nice to have some redundancy. I did not place a single wire on this route.

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