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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Alan Cattabraga 1988
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Jeff underclinging the "death flake", be...


This route is listed in the guidebook but is almost never done. The guide gives it an X rating meaning you could die climbing it if you fall (or pull off the huge loose flake in this case). I finally got around to climbing it today and didn't feel it lived up to the hype as far as danger goes. It was however VERY enjoyable climbing, if a bit short. I'll give it an R rating for the hollow flake but if you can climb gently and place gear in the right spots you should be fine. I'm not recommending it for just anyone but if your likelihood of falling on a straight forward 10a is low and you like a bit of spice, go for it.

Just left of the start of 3 easy pieces, climb a corner with a good but tricky red camalot for pro. Move up to a nice ledge and contemplate the crux flake. I placed a couple finger size pieces close to where the fake connects to the rock where it felt pretty solid. Move up in to under cling locks and reach up to the top of the flake for edges that get better the more you move right. You can get good gear here and top it out.


Left of Three Easy Pieces 5.10a....


Trad gear. Belay from trees.

Photos of Danger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jakob "danger" montoya climbs Danger
Jakob "danger" montoya climbs Danger
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff on the very "trady" start :)
Jeff on the very "trady" start :)
Rock Climbing Photo: top of Danger
top of Danger
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading out the loose flake on Danger 5.10a R
Me leading out the loose flake on Danger 5.10a R
Rock Climbing Photo: Loose? Don't think it will break from a fall but m...
Loose? Don't think it will break from a fall but m...

Comments on Danger Add Comment
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By Ladd
Aug 23, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X

I've looked at this one too, maybe I'll do it someday with a top-belay.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 8, 2011

Good training for Cannon, if you do 100 laps in a day.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 23, 2012

Just updated the description after me and some friends climbed it today... Actually quite fun climbing. If it wasn't loose, dirty and trad it would be quite popular haha... Not a route for everyone but i had fun...
By S. Neoh
Jun 23, 2012

I had considered soloing thru the dodgy part. Is there a fixed anchor at the top?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 24, 2012

no fixed anchor... really i think gear would hold fine if placed mindfully...
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 15, 2015

In terms of anchor logistics, you can clip long draws on the anchor of squall/ three easy pieces and have someone second you up this route to clean it. I doubt that the flake is going to come down this year. A pretty fun route if you like the Rumney trad!
By S. Neoh
Sep 16, 2015

We did TR this climb a while back, after I led up Three Easy Pieces. I do not remember if we placed a directional piece up high before the top out or not. The hollow flake was flexing but did not give the impression it was about to explode when pulled on a bunch of scrawny folks. Not sure what an expanding cam under load will do to it, however.
The real climbing was fun and interesting enough, albeit too short.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 16, 2015

I have seen the flake flex under a falling load with a #1 or #2 C4 behind the end of it. It wasn't me on the rope at the time and I was still very fearful just being in the area. It bends, but did not kill anyone.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 18, 2015

Sounds like they didn't take my advice of placing gear mindfully and not falling...
by "mindfully" I meant placing gear in the safest place on the flake ie closest to its contact with the rest of the cliff there by having less fulcrum to flex and eventually pull off the flake. oh, and DON'T FALL!

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