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Dancing with Dragons 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Dobie
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Jun 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

An excellent corner crack climb with an equally cool (if not cooler) variation start. Begin to the left of the corner/chimney of Men in Tights. You will see a big right-facing corner capped with a wide roof and a left-leaning splitter crack to its right.

P1 (5.10a/b): Scramble up to a dirt terrace where the corner begins with a wide-ish crack (good jams in back), surmount this wide section and the corner will quickly thin to fingers and wide fingers. Jam your way up to a rest and a brief widening of the crack (hands). From here, the crack will thin int more fingers and slicker feet. Surmount this section and the crack will begin to flare in back before widening to a slot with loose rock in back. Make a few moves using mostly the crack and gain easier terrain on slotted blocks (still, make sure to check your stances). Follow ledge-y terrain to the chains in an alcove on your left beneath the roof.

Variation start: Rather than scrambling up to the dirt terrace for the standard start, begin on the left-leaning splitter crack that begins right off the ground. Jam through skinny fingers with the occasional pod, to where the crack tapers and eventually disappears. At this point, make a long reach left to rejoin the corner.

P2 (ostensibly 5.9, though actually 5.11+): Climb out the cave on the wide crack exiting the roof right. Make strenuous, exposed wide moves out from the belay and turn the roof where the crack thins into a steep dihedral. Hard exposed moves will put you onto vertical terrain that will terminate in a terrace with a bolt belay.

Location 

Left of Men in Tights, and a 1-2 minute walk right from Morass

Protection 

P1: TCUs 0-1, doubles .3-.75, single 1, single or double 2, single 3-4

P2: Add wide gear, another 4 and a 5


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