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Dancing Queen 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Kalous, and Jason and Will from Canada.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,728
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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No good sizes on this one. Awesome route!

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thin torquing on fingers to hands to OW. The OW is pretty cool with some stacking required, but the crux is the start. Kinda bouldery. I would give it another star if it was longer.

Location 

A splitter start on an undercut wall on a prow. Right of all the routes in the book just a minute or two. Before Time and Learning to Fly.

Protection 

#0 TCU to (old) 4.5 and 5 camalot (One each on the daddy sized is fine).


Photos of Dancing Queen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: what a great climb i love dancing queen's
what a great climb i love dancing queen's

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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2009

cool route! blew a foot right after I got that first finger lock and somehow stayed on without losing the finger. the OW at the top is fun too! Every route we did on The Wall this day went through all sizes with the crux on small gear. So Fun!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2010

Don't underestimate the techy crux beginning. The foot holds may be big, but can you use them wisely? Awesome cranking.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

such a good route - black alien to #5 camalot, gives you a little taste of everything.

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