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The Knifeblade
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Dancing on the Moon T 

Dancing on the Moon 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: John Kear spring 1996
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: John Kear on Dec 10, 2007

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Start on the NW corner of the formation below a knifeblade. Climb up just right of the arete. Clip the fixed gear and climb the arete through the lower crux section in the first 30 feet. Continue up the arete or just to the right making sure to not miss any gear opportunities. The second crux comes at about 70-80ft up on the technical and exposed upper arete. After the crux continue on easier 5.10 terrain to the top and a fixed anchor. The climb seems to be in the 5.11+ range by consensuses it is technical, powerful, and heady, a must do for any Sandias hardperson.


Located on the NW arete of the Knifeblade. You can rap off the top with a single 70m rope, a 60m might work but I can't remember. One can walk off the top to the south then down the NE side of the formation. The walk off isn't that pleasant but its short.


Bring a selection of small stoppers and RP's, small cams and 1, 2" piece for pro near the top. The are 6-7 pins and bolts on the route and a fixed anchor at the top. Bring 12-14 draws.

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