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Dancing in the Light 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Dave Jones, Don Serl 1986
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is an inspiring line directly up the right edge of the Central Apron. Prepare for great slab climbing, with the easier sections being somewhat runout.

P1 (10c): From the Snake start go out right and wander up the right hand side of the slab. 40m, 4 bolts
P2 (10a): Move right and plug a .75 camalot into the corner and pull out onto the slab. Put your head down and keep your faith in friction. 35m, 3 bolts + cam.
P3 (10b): More slab climbing straight up...not over-bolted. 30m, 3 bolts
P4 (11a): The slab steepens and the climbing turns more to 'front-pointing' than smearing. Veer slightly left then back right to a scoop with two bolts, one old one new. The bolts are more closely spaced on this pitch. 30m, 7bolts.
P5 (10d): More of the same (this pitch can be linked with P4 if you feel like you need the challenge). 12m, 2 bolts.
P6 (11b): Move up to the small seam and tickle in some small gear if you can find it - I didn't. Pull a mantle on decent holds and clip a 'thank-god' bolt. The crux is moving left and up on tiny crystals. 25m, 4 bolts.
P7 (5.9): The final pitch feels like a cake-walk after the first 6, but it still has some real climbing. 32m, 3 bolts.

I debated whether to call this PG13 or R but went with the former. If anyone else who has climbed it feels otherwise I can change.

Location 

Scramble up the trail as per Snake but where that route starts, take the right hand side of the slab.
Descend as per any other Apron route

Protection 

Take about 8-10 draws and a .75 camalot for the start of P2. In theory, a #5 RP will protect the start of the crux pitch but I couldn't find the slot. It's a tricky place to try fishing in gear as you are a bit run-out and not at a great stance....probably better to just pull the move (maybe 10a/b) and clip the bolt.


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By Drewsky
Aug 13, 2015

The pitch I remember as the scariest was the second one you describe where you pull out of the crack and out right onto the slab. But then, of course, it was my lead. I just remember moving right, padding up the slab a ways, looking down into the trees and thinking well, I guess I'm soloing here for a bit.

Then again, if you're up there for the .11 slab the .10 on that pitch isn't too bad. It's only runout if you fall, so just don't fall! What a fun route. Love the head games.
By Tim Bonnell
Sep 23, 2015

Climbed this route again today and it is certainly one to remember. This time the pitch difficulty blurred together a little, I thought the 1st 3 pitches all felt about mid 5.10. There are definitely a few runouts (up to 10m) on the first 3 pitches, and the harder pitches aren't exactly sport-bolted. I've updated the description with a bolt count and pitch lengths. I'm not sure what makes a climb R as opposed to PG-13 but at least now you can do the math a make an educated decision.

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