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The Textbooks
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Avant Garde T,TR 
Bad Manners T 
Big Man on Campus T,TR 
Block Party TR 
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 
Chalkboard S,TR 
Dancing Hearts T 
Deep Sleep T 
Doorknob People T 
Graduation Day T,TR 
Heart Throb T 
L.B.S. T,TR 
Labyrinth T,TR 
Minotaur T,TR 
Prom Night T 
Rage T 
Schools Out T 
Splash T,TR 
Theseus T,TR 
Virgin Slayer T 

Dancing Hearts 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknoun, 1970's
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Derrick Peppers on Apr 30, 2015

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Brian getting ready to cross the nearly footless t...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts the same as Heart Throb until you reach the roof. At this point, clip the optional bolt and move into the crux shuffle right under the roof. The feet were probably once great but now the have rubbed those edges into a slick polished surface that makes the feet a little questionable. Move around the corner and try to avoid getting your rope eatan by the roof corner. Move left across the face to the left crack and top out. One bolt up top. Building an anchor is a little difficult but can be done.

Location 

Look for the unmistakable left facing dihedral a hundred yards south of the short section of the Textbooks. This route is the right side of the roof above the dihedral.

Protection 

If your a seasoned trad climber, you'll find the protection quit adequate. If your new to the trad game, you might be a little spooked by this climb, gear wise. Don't expect much for a top rope anchor. I wouldn't trust the lone bolt up there either. You'll figure out something.


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