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"Unknown 5.9" T 
Alar T 
Blood Lust T 
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Dancing Bear T 
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Encouragement T 
Heartbreak of Psoriacis T 
Libretto T 
Living for the City T 
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Wild Beast T 
Winds of Change T 

Dancing Bear 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Mosshart, May 1988
Season: all year
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: geoff georges on Jul 27, 2015

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5.10b my butt... I can't even get my finger ti...

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Great route.really sustained and insecure, feels more like 10c/d. Starts with tough finger crack, splitter hand jams up top gets wider as you go. Stemming options on Heartbreak to the left which is so close it seems fine to me, it splits off after the hard start.


Right of Heartbreak of Psoriasis.


double rack to 3", #4 good up top.There is no anchor, you could make a anchor with hand size gear or cordellete on column, or traverse left to Winds of Change anchor, 60 meter rope works for rappel.

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By Joshua Thompson
From: Seattle, Washington
Sep 18, 2016

This is a sandbag rating for this, don't be fooled. When it says it feels like 10c/d, that's because it's at least that. And what's referred to as a finger crack is so thin that I had to use micro nuts to aid part of it because I couldn't even get my finger tips in a section of it. I can see it being doable if you're stemming left onto the other route but it's exactly that, another route. Anyway, it was really hard for me. I climbed the 10.c to the left of it to grab my bail nut and that route was actually enjoyable.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 19, 2016

Thanks Joshua.
You can suggest a rating. MP will give a weighted average to all ratings with the original rating having a larger weight. But with enough suggested ratings, the original will be overridden.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 19, 2016

I entered it as 10b because that was the rating given by the first ascent. For some reason all the routes on this face are really hard for their given ratings when compared to the West Bend routes and Royal Columns. But I think it is fair, most ratings are soft in Wa., we just need to humble ourselves, or get better. But I did add that I think it is 10+.
I don't know what Ed intended with the grade, but whatever my body parts can reach are in for me on outdoor routes, there are no tape or color holds to follow.

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