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B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon)
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Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 750', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: John Glime Paul Ross (Alt Leads) Sept 8th 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 959
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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A)Scorpian Slab 5.9-.. B) Dancing in the Dark 5.6


Located in Spotted Wolf Canyon.A low grade route with some nice situations.The climb was named after a Bruce Springsteen song when we met up with a chap at the trail head with a guitar, asked by one of the party if he knew any songs by Bruce, he immediately bust into Dancin' the Dark. Quite appropriate! I guess to on-sighting a new slab climb.

P1). Start at the foot of the ridge. Climb an easy slab to where it steepens,climb past two bolts to double anchors. 200' 5.5.
P2).Continue around a big block then up the ridge keeping to the right,one bolt and some cam protection to double anchors. 200'5.5
P3).Keep to the right edge passed an exposed move, Natural pro to cam belay on big ledge to the left.200' 5.5.
P4).Follow the edge passed one bolt to double anchor belay at the top of the slab climb Scorpion that comes up from the left.150' 5.6.
Descent . Two raps down Scorpion then 4th class down the Amphitheater slabs.


Walk through Little Spotted Wolf Canyon almost to its end . Just past a massive slab ampiththeatre with two caves at its top the low angled ridge is to the right.


Several cams from 1/4" to 4". Slings .Two 60m ropes.

Photos of Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John near top of pitch 4.
John near top of pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers top of first pitch.Photo by Jaynee West (...
Climbers top of first pitch.Photo by Jaynee West (...
Rock Climbing Photo: John on first pitch.
John on first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Silhouette of climber top of pitch 4. Scorpion sla...
Silhouette of climber top of pitch 4. Scorpion sla...

Comments on Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 Add Comment
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 23, 2008

This route ended too soon. It was suppose to keep following the ridge to the top, but we ran into a big sandstone crevasse. The last pitch puts you on the top of Super Crack of the Reef. You can set up a top rope, or just admire that beautiful crack.

Don't mind the first few shitty bolts on this route, they're solid, enough! That's what happens when you forget the blow tube in the truck.
By L. Hamilton
Mar 23, 2014

A 5.6 route for climbers who lead harder -- I would not recommend this if 5.6 is your limit. It's an interesting, varied and quite scenic route but (as typical for the Reef) there are places where you're routefinding on fragile rock with no protection in sight, while keeping the rope away from flakes perched above your belayer (we trundled some of those after passing). The diagonal line is challenging for followers too.

We did 3 double-rope rappels down Scorpion Slab to reach 3rd class slabs at the base, then scrambled 100 feet or so to the ground.
By SMH Climber
From: Midvale, UT
Mar 18, 2015

I agree this is not for a 5.6 leader. I would rate the pitches as 1. 5.6R, 2. 5.5, 3. 5.5R, 4. 5.7R. The belay for pitch 3 was not easy to find you end up traversing about 50 feet in from the arête. We came up short with the 60 m rope on pitch 3 and I had to simul climb about 15 feet. Over all it was still a fun adventure. we dud 3 double rope rappels as well.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 24, 2015

As always thanks for your comments . We were a bit disappointed with this climb as we though the ridge continued to the far summits .. It was there so we went up it .. However as you you found there are not many of the routes in this area that will disappoint as far as an adventure !

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