Dance to the Music
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This route has a little bit of everything with good rock quality and sustained technical climbing. There were four distinct cruxes for me that all involved tricky slab footwork and delicate balance. The Classics guidebook calls this route 11b but I thought it may push into the 11+ realm (my partner and I found it more challenging than Spud Meets Hammerhead, 11c). Overall, a neat combination of face and slab climbing with well-spaced bolts.
On the face/arete to the right of Coyote Corner. A 70 meter rope gets you down.
Jun 12, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solid 3 star route. I wouldn't go a hair lower. It's hard to imagine rapping past the crux and not reflecting fondly.