REI Community
Dana's Arch Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Man's Car T 
Beat Box S 
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 
Crimson Eye , The T 
Dana's Arch T,S 
Golden Road S 
Heaven's Gate T,S 
Jungle Fun S 
Tempituous S 
Wildest Dreams T 

Dana's Arch 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A3

Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A3 [details]
FA: Bob Crawford, Leigh Nason, Pat Timson, 70 FFA: (P1 Short) Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien
Page Views: 1,866
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Near the top of P1 of Dana's Arch (11b).

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


P1: Climb the thin pin-scarred arch past bolts to a two-bolt sling belay about 40 feet up (.11b). Either descend or continue to free climb through a thin corner past one bolt and possible gear placements to another sling belay before the pitch 2 bolt ladder (.12a/b).

The rest of the pitches are primarily aid:

P2: Bolt ladder and an A3 section.

P3: Mixed free and aid to a rightward trending ramp.

P4: A2 groove/crack that gets runoff from the top.


P1 is the very obvious left-curving arch encountered after passing the sport wall on the trail heading towards the Earwax wall. Descent from the upper pitches may require two 60m ropes.


Bolts and possibly a small cam or two if planning to lead the .12 section as well. Fixed anchors on the lower part, but consider bringing a knife and some fresh webbing as the hangers clogged with old slings.

Aid bolts higher up are rumoured to have been upgraded recently; I'm not sure if this applies to the belay bolts as well.

Photos of Dana's Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola Masciandaro at crux of P1, Dana's Arch (11b...
Nicola Masciandaro at crux of P1, Dana's Arch (11b...

Comments on Dana's Arch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nicola Masciandaro
Jul 29, 2014

My preferred contender for the best short pitch of pumpy bolt-protected pure pin-scarred fun on the planet.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 29, 2014

A pleasingly petite pumpy pitch of perfectly pure pin-scar pulling?
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Dec 7, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3

Anyone checked out free climbing potential above the 5.12 section?
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 30, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3

the bolts are a little disconcerting in their rustiness...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About