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Damsels in Distress 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Andy Marquardt Brad Mattingly, /90
Season: Afernoon shade
Page Views: 1,307
Submitted By: arjunmh on May 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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roman rapping the route at the end of the day - aw...

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The delightfully long line that is on the east facing face of Glitter Box. To get there, it's just out of the "alley" where "Eyes of the World" is, and about 5-10m north along the base of the cliff. First bolt is about 30' up! It's noted as sport in Marty's book: "Climb up the vertical face past 12 bolts to a 2 shut rap. 160'. Double line rap" (though someone left a quicklink at a bolt about 25 m from the top to enable two single line raps if you trust rapping off one bolt from 1990). A fantastic classic route that he degraded from 3 stars to 2 because of loose rock. It seems to have cleaned up nicely as of this writing, and there was fresh webbing around rap rings up top. I'll bring quicklings and rap rings for my next climb of this awesome line to swap out. Bolts are runout all the way until the last 3 before the top. Small cams to 0.75 and including 00 or equivalent C3 are useful. Many placements are done while quite pumped, hence my PG-13 rating.


An easy (7-8) trad climb to the top, didn't replace any webbing to descend or check the descent from there.


12 bolts, with 1-3 pieces of pro suggested between bolts for the first 9.

Photos of Damsels in Distress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: super intimidating, but it's all there
super intimidating, but it's all there
Rock Climbing Photo: near the top of damsels in distress
near the top of damsels in distress
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanna rapping the route -- a fun double rope rap i...
Hanna rapping the route -- a fun double rope rap i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arjun at the anchors, the runout to first bolt sho...
BETA PHOTO: Arjun at the anchors, the runout to first bolt sho...

Comments on Damsels in Distress Add Comment
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By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This climb is pretty intimidating from the base - steep enduro climbing with widely spaced bolts. Classic for sure.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Very long pitch with committing climbing. A few small cams can be placed before the first bolt and periodically during the climb.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 19, 2011

This thing is way bitchin! No supplemental gear necessary with a cool head.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

It's been years since my last trip up the route. I got full fun value by not having to worry about the rope weight or where the last bolt was by taking the second position. Just pull and go; what a luxury. Clean & fun!

Note: I couldn't quite remember the deal with the rap but you can rap using a single 60' rope if you don't mind breaking it into two raps and utilizing the mid-point shut placement. Otherwise, best to bring two cords for the rap from the top.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Nov 23, 2015

So great to get back on this incredible climb after many a year -- it remains one of my favorites for the area!

Even with my "cool head" I was happy to have a couple supplemental pieces: one for below the first bolt and another small one for up higher.

Some wise soul put in a second bolt to create a hanging rap station such that this can be rapped with a single line (60 m no problem). But this wise soul used a 1/2" bolt and rigged a 3/8" hanger on top of the rap anchor as a very odd way to rig it. Reminder to self, the wise soul, or anyone else with a wrench, a 1/2" hanger and a bit of good will to set this straight on the next time up. It is VERY nice to not have to carry two ropes in simply to do this climb. Of course, the other option is to top out on the formation, using some gear, after belaying the second up.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dec 3, 2015

Great Pitch! place 2 supplemental pieces.

Thank you to whomever chopped the "retro-bolt" of this!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Jan 9, 2017

Fixed the midway anchor a bit on this, but will ultimately need to either add a 1/2" hanger to the strange 1/2" bolt plus nut setup, or get rid of that and simply add another 3/8" bolt and hanger. Didn't get to it while recently setting "Damsel's Arete" and Splendid "Arete". Posting those now.

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