REI Community
Weißenstein
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1. Affäre S 
7up S 
Akku S 
Annelore S 
Baggi ned S 
Beamtenleiter S 
Boulderwandl S 
Buchenleiter S 
Dampfhammer S 
Die Wilden Kletterkerle S 
Don’t Worry Be Happy  S 
Eieruhr S 
Entsafter S 
Für Zwietsch S 
Krampfhammer  S 
Leon S 
Lukas S 
Maral S 
Mon Marie S 
Mondnavigation S 
Nullnummer S 
Panische Zeiten S 
R 7 S 
R3 S 
R9 S 
Rechte Kante S 
Schlingenweg S 
Trepperl S 
Verlobungsweg  S 
Wilde 13 S 
Zwischenfall S 

Dampfhammer 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kurt Albert 1979
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The right side of Weissenstein, with climbers on D...

Description 

It’s hard to say which is the best line on this magnificent cliff, but this Kurt Albert masterpiece is certainly in the running. With impeccable stone, massive jugs throughout, and perfectly gymnastic movement, the climbing is engaging and memorable from bottom to top. An undercut start leads to easy liebacking along the obvious flake, and a good stance below the looming headwall. A surprisingly sequential series of long, monkey-like swings leads up the steep bulge. The holds just get bigger as the pump builds, resulting in a fantastic pump and a few desperate slaps pulling onto the coral slab.

Location 

Begins up the obvious right-facing flake on the far right end of the cliff.

Protection 

5 bolts to a high 1 Bolt anchor.


Photos of Dampfhammer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The steep right side of Weissenstein.  The greenis...
The steep right side of Weissenstein. The greenis...
Rock Climbing Photo: A local working out the sequential crux of Dampfha...
A local working out the sequential crux of Dampfha...

Comments on Dampfhammer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 20, 2014

This could be 12a. I never really figured out the non-linear UIAA-to-YDS conversion. I wanted to give it 11d/12a but the database wouldn't allow that. It's UIAA 8, if you can figure out what that means in YDS, good for you!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About