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Dam Wall
Routes Sorted
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Dam Fine Cracks T 
Damned if You Do  S 
Damned if You Don't S 
Day as Night S 
Fall Equinox S 
Shale for Sale T 
Unknown S 

Damned if You Don't 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Habovstack, June 1998
Page Views: 994
Submitted By: John Steiger on May 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Damned if You Don't starts with a boulder-problem crux past two bolts followed by 5.10 maybe 5.10+ climbing with great position and fun movement, albeit on somewhat suspicious rock. As Tenesmus said in his post on the Dam Wall page, “It has a hard start with a killer deadpoint or nice edgy static moves and then loads of steep movement. Its really fun, quick to get to and worth repeating.” Clipping the first bolt is a little attention-getting, but not bad (the truly risk adverse can use a stick clip). Some call this 12b, but it's easier than Big in Japan and Eye in the Sky. (Date of FA from rc.com, which also reports, in a 2003 post by "fanederhand," that this was drilled by hand, on lead!).

Location 

Right-most bolt line on Dam Wall, with the first bolt maybe 25 feet high on a relatively smooth looking face.

Protection 

A dozen draws if I remember right, but take a few extra to be safe. Best to avoid clipping the third to last bolt (on the slab under the finishing overhang) to avoid rope drag, but bring a long runner if you think you’ll want to. We used a single 70 meter rope to lower/rap to the ground; a 60 meter rope is probably (barely) adequate.


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By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The start was the hardest part for me and the rest was just endurance. If you screw up the start at the first bolt then it's gonna hurt.