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Dam Bureaucrats 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Kerry, BS, JT, 1988
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: JimmyK on Nov 28, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The line indicates a rough estimate of the route.

Description 

See Bob Kerry's Southern AZ Backcountry Climbing Guide.(climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_h...
P1: 5.7, 120 ft. Low angle crack to ledge with large oak trees. Belay at tree.
P2: 5.8+, 110 ft?. Start 10 feet left of belay for P1. Slab climb to a bolt appx 20 feet up, then another 40 feet above the first. Runout. Continue up over a bulge to one more bolt, then two bolt anchor.
P3: 5.8, 110 ft.?. Slab climb up and right to a bolt, then horn, up and over a bulge to gully. Belay at flat opening in gully. Best pitch of the route.
P4: 5.8-, 70 ft?: Slab climb up and to the right to one bolt. Continue up and right to 2 bolt anchor.
The route ends at the top of Jungle Cruiser. Rap down Jungle Cruiser. From what I recall, a 60 meter rope would get down the first rap and maybe the 2nd rap. Double ropes required on the last two raps (Rap 3 and 4).
Enjoyable route that is in the shade all day.

Location 

Left Side of Golder Dome (furthest left climb listed in Kerry's Backcountry guidebook).

Protection 

Single Rack, Nuts to #3 Camalot. A few bolts on Pitches 2, 3, and 4. Fixed Anchors on top of Pitch 2 and Pitch 4.
PG-13 rating because, typical of the area, the bolts on the slab/face are few and far between but the slab/face is manageable if you are comfortable with some run-out sections.


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By Matt Juaire
Sep 16, 2013

The rappel on this route can be done with a single 80 meter rope. Be sure to put good knots in the ends of your rope because the distance is close.

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