REI Community
Golder Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buzzworm's Backyard T,S 
Dam Bureaucrats T 
Klingons in the Neutral Zone T 
Ten Years After T 

Dam Bureaucrats 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Kerry, BS, JT, 1988
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: JimmyK on Nov 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The line indicates a rough estimate of the route.


See Bob Kerry's Southern AZ Backcountry Climbing Guide.(
P1: 5.7, 120 ft. Low angle crack to ledge with large oak trees. Belay at tree.
P2: 5.8+, 110 ft?. Start 10 feet left of belay for P1. Slab climb to a bolt appx 20 feet up, then another 40 feet above the first. Runout. Continue up over a bulge to one more bolt, then two bolt anchor.
P3: 5.8, 110 ft.?. Slab climb up and right to a bolt, then horn, up and over a bulge to gully. Belay at flat opening in gully. Best pitch of the route.
P4: 5.8-, 70 ft?: Slab climb up and to the right to one bolt. Continue up and right to 2 bolt anchor.
The route ends at the top of Jungle Cruiser. Rap down Jungle Cruiser. From what I recall, a 60 meter rope would get down the first rap and maybe the 2nd rap. Double ropes required on the last two raps (Rap 3 and 4).
Enjoyable route that is in the shade all day.


Left Side of Golder Dome (furthest left climb listed in Kerry's Backcountry guidebook).


Single Rack, Nuts to #3 Camalot. A few bolts on Pitches 2, 3, and 4. Fixed Anchors on top of Pitch 2 and Pitch 4.
PG-13 rating because, typical of the area, the bolts on the slab/face are few and far between but the slab/face is manageable if you are comfortable with some run-out sections.

Comments on Dam Bureaucrats Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Juaire
Sep 16, 2013

The rappel on this route can be done with a single 80 meter rope. Be sure to put good knots in the ends of your rope because the distance is close.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About