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Renaissance Wall
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Dakota 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1995
Page Views: 1,557
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on May 4, 2009

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Description 

Reach up to a sizable jug horn, right off the ground to begin. Either stick clip or go-go-gadget clipping arm to prevent a ground fall. The first few bolts of climbing is low angle, and very technical, not to mention that a number of foot holds (and hand holds) are disintegrating. However, a few fun moves through this section get you to a restful stance and the rock becomes far better. Follow a faded seem through ultra technical movement, clipping bolts and placing a small nut towards the top. The seem eventually opens up and jugs, slopers lead to the chains.

This route is a technicians dream line; sequential, demanding and beta-intensive. The crux is cryptic, to say the least. It was previously considered 13a (by Tommy), but a couple holds have broken since and definitely warrants a capital B.

Location 

Right side of Renaissance Wall as you approach it. To the left of Hooligan (13c).

Protection 

16 quickdraws and bring a couple small nuts.


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By RandyFarris
Aug 26, 2010

I bolted and worked this route in 1993 and climbed all of it except for the 5 ft at the thin seam. Just could not do one move. Anyway, we had our first child that year, "Ryan Dakota", so I did not get back to it for a while, and Mike Caldwell called and said Tommy needed some exercise, so I said go for it. Kudos, Tommy, thanks for not changing the name. Glade to see people are climbing it.

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