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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Season: June through Fall
Page Views: 1,267
Submitted By: ARob on Jun 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Really fun route. Start in the tiny alcove at the bottom and make some fun little chimney moves to get yourself into position to get over the ceiling / buldge. Use good holds and heel hook to power through the crux. The rest is a really enjoyable 5.7 face to top chains that the 10b shares next to it.


As you are heading down the trail along the bottom of the crag, this is one of the last routes you come to. It's the last big rock pillar that's right on the trail and it kind of has this double alcove thing at the bottom with a ceiling on the left side (which is the crux of the 10b to the left).


Several bolts up top with a top chain. The first bolt is just above the crux but cannot be reached until you pull through, so if you blow that you have a pretty rough landing. Do yourself a favor and use a stick clip or supplament below the bolt with some medium size gear.

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By Ebb Ebbing
From: Vancouver, WA
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

With no stick clip or crash pad available, my climbing partner elected to climb the face up and to the right of the alcove and then traverse back to the left to clip to the bolt above the crux. He estimated this "alternate start" at about 5.8. It protected well with trad gear. This approach then allows one to come back down from that point and attempt the crux of the true start with the first bolt clipped, or to continue on to the top to set a top rope.

Safety rating may be more like PG13 without the first bolt clipped or some other pro placed prior to attempting the crux.

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