Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: DQ Wall - Left Side photo/topo, Joshua Tree NP A...
Although the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall shares the same name as the more popular right side, and the two portions are connected, most people are wholly unfamiliar with this lesser visited side. That's too bad as there are some really good routes on this side and the approach is actually easier as well.
The right side of the DQ Wall is characterized by juggy moderate cracks (hence it's popularity) while the left side has smoother greyish rock with the odd black knob. Some of the outstanding routes here include Leap Year Flake
(5.7) a unique wafer-thin undercling flake, Get Right Or Get Left
(5.9) a hundred foot crack with lots of variety, Norm
(5.10a) a fun and well-protected face/arete, Pat Adams Dihedral
(5.11b/c) a demanding and overhanging corner and Toxic Waltz
(5.12a) a steep and exposed arete to face.
Park as for Hemingway Buttress, in the large, paved parking area and follow the signed Access Fund trail towards Hemingway and then cut left to near the base of the wall. Alternately, one can park as for Playhouse Rock, near the Milepost, and follow the marked trail to Playhouse and then cut right to reach the same point near the base of the wall. Once at the base a bit of scrambling is required to access the base of the wall proper; if you hit it right you should come in right at the base of Norm.
Weather station 10.2 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side:
Lurch 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Norm 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Pugsley 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Pat Adams Dihedral 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid...
This is another neglected classic which is found on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall. Once at the base of the cliff climb the excellent Leap Year Flake or Leap Erickson as an approach pitch. Once atop these routes you'll be under a large overhang capping a right facing corner which is the route.The undercling/layback just off the start is the crux, and after the first 30 feet of climbing, you have to go up and around the roof which is easier, but a bit scary. An excellent stopper...[more] Browse More Classics in California
BETA PHOTO: Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side A. Tofutti (5.8) B. ...
Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
BETA PHOTO: The left side of the Dairy Queen Wall as seen from...
By Bo Johnston
Mar 7, 2005
What is the bolted line to the left of Addams Family? The Vogel guide shows Slushie 5.10b to a two bolt anchor half way up the slab. I saw bolts but they continue all the way to the top and there is no bolted belay half way... The upper section looks harder than 10b?
By C Miller
Mar 7, 2005
The route in question is called The Mojus (aka Slushie), is rated 5.10c and is already in the route database. The bolts have been replaced and the superfluous belay removed; this route can easily be done in a single pitch.
By Charlie Richardson
Mar 28, 2017
I'm a dumbass and left my favorite climbing shoes, an old pair of Anasazi Blancos, at the base of Pugsley which is underneath the rap station for Leap Year Flake. If you have them I'll buy you beer, whiskey, or drugs. If you're clean then I'll name my first child after you.