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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Routes Sorted
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Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
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Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
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Grand Inquisitor T 
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Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
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Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoiled Moose, The T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
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Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Daedulus Direct 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Dan Hare et al. (?)
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: slim on Sep 15, 2008

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  • Description 

    A good, varied route at the far right side of the traversing mid-height ledge of the Bell Buttress.

    Start up a left-facing dihedral in a slight alcove and be sure to get the best gear you can get and as high as you can get it (small TCU/Alien or possibly large RP). Climb above this into an awkward mantel over a small roof and into the dihedral above (9R, have an attentive belayer as blowing this could send you to craterville).

    After you get established in the dihedral, head upwards on slightly awkward jamming and laybacking. Supposedly you can traverse rightwards at 10R somewhere in here, but I didn't see where that might be. As the crack peters out, head up and slightly right on some pretty non-positive lumps through 2 good bolts to a ledge and gear belay. This is really good climbing, and felt extremely insecure. You can also try to eek your way to the right into the crack system, but it isn't much easier.

    From this ledge, the easiest way to get off is to climb another long 4th class/ easy 5th class pitch to the top and then hike forward (south), and then right (west), down an easy gully. Don't get lured into going down into a hanging gully, this could get hairy! After you have descended about 150 feet, keep your eyes open for an easy break to the right (skier's right, eastward) which will take you along a ledge to the base of the route.


    Traverse/scramble to the right, past Cosmosis, past the exposed chimney gap, past Arms Bazaar, tunnel through the boulder, and walk about 30 to 50 feet. The line is pretty obvious in a slight alcove with a scalloped, left-facing dihedral.


    Varied rack from small cams and RPs to #1 Camalot. #2 or #3 Camalot optional and possibly helpful.

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