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East Buttress
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Dad's Route  T 
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Dad's Route  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Evan Mathews, Tony Chang (July 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Late June Through Early October (depending on snowfall)
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: A. Ginger on Jul 29, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: X's show approximate belays

Description 

Put on your dad pants and get ready for some adventure! This fun mixed route takes a somewhat wandering line up the shear, west most side of the buttress and follows cracks and face features on mostly great rock for its length. Even though the route sports sustained easy climbing, it was established on lead in alpine style so expect some long run-outs between pro and bolts. If you think a little spice is nice you will enjoy this line.

Pitch 1, 5.7
Start at the base of the very obvious left slanting crack system about 80ft up and left from the toe of the buttress. Climb 40ft of very easy but unprotected 5th class to and obvious ledge and clip the first bolt. From the first bolt follow the obvious vegetated crack past bolts and gear to an obvious small overlap with a #3 camalot (or equivalent) placement. Once over the overlap, place a small piece in a left facing flake and follow a few bolts trending up and left towards a small pillar of rock to a bolt belay. Runner things well. This is a long pitch and takes almost all of a 70m rope, so be sure to tie in the follower before sending off the leader!

Pitch 2, 5.8
From the belay, climb up and right and follow spacey bolts on great rock to a heady section getting to the last bolt on the pitch. Climb through awesome runnels to a bolted anchor. This pitch is all bolts.

Pitch 3, 5.5
Climb up to a single bolt then climb straight up the face trough spaced natural pro to the ridge line staying to the right of a small group of trees. Once the ridge line is gained, follow it up and left to an obvious tree belay on a large ledge at the base of a final triangular headwall.

From the tree belay, walk left about 15ft and belay un-anchored on the comfy ledge. The first bolt is roughly 12 ft off the ground.

Pitch 4, 5.6
Climb up the perfect grey rock to a bolt, then continue straight up to some natural pro in a flake just up and left of a small shrub. From here, follow two more bolts to the top of the feature. Once on top of the triangular feature, cross a small gap to a 15ft section of easy 5th class to a tree belay.

To descend, see the descent beta listed on the East Buttress page.

Location 

The very obvious left slanting crack system about 80ft up and left from the toe of the buttress.

Protection 

Natural pro and bolts. Single rack to #3, nuts, 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, and a 70m rope. Wear your helmet.


Photos of Dad's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: .
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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony approaching the belay at the top of pitch one...
Tony approaching the belay at the top of pitch one...
Rock Climbing Photo: Establishing the first pitch on lead.
Establishing the first pitch on lead.

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