|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 95'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08|
|Submitted By:||Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009|
|Comments on Dad's Nuts||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By another Chad
Feb 6, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
The loose rock on this route is unnerving.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
May 25, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Not a bad route. Pretty stout for 5.9. Couple loose rocks, but mostly good. Protects well. For starting, best to start up No Nuts, and run it out to the anchors that start Dad's Nuts.|
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty good route, I'd give it 2.5 stars if I could. I didn't feel that it was any harder than nearby No Nuts (5.9).
You probably can't sew this route up with gear - there are good placements, but there's junk in between. A long, clean fall with gear below your feet awaits you at most of the harder sections (the route is overhung most of the way). Pretty safe, but a bit spooky.
There isn't much loose rock on this route any more. But there are gigantic blocks that I put cams behind... They're big enough that I doubt they'd move, but I was motivated not to fall.