Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | All Rainey |
Page Views: | 2,853 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Luke Bertelsen on Aug 29, 2012 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This route would be 4 stars anywhere, but stands out in Tensleep as the climbing is atypical for the area - steep compression and climbing up a singular feature for the duration of the climb.
Begin with some long pulls in the sandstone band low on the wall then navigate the crack just as the pillar steepens. At bolt three the climb launches up a narrow steep refrigerator with less than ideal holds and essential heel hooks that make for some spicy clipping positions. Find a marginal rest as the angle switches to vert then launch into another very tricky two bolt sequence before you get the chance to breath as you stand at the slab stance with 50 feet of pure joy remaining above you. Although the climbing from here to the chains is much easier the sequences and position could not be more engaging and amazing as you continue to climb the pillar that protrudes from the rest of the wall all the way to the chains.
This is easily in the running for best low end 5.13 in Tensleep Canyon. DO THIS CLIMB !
Begin with some long pulls in the sandstone band low on the wall then navigate the crack just as the pillar steepens. At bolt three the climb launches up a narrow steep refrigerator with less than ideal holds and essential heel hooks that make for some spicy clipping positions. Find a marginal rest as the angle switches to vert then launch into another very tricky two bolt sequence before you get the chance to breath as you stand at the slab stance with 50 feet of pure joy remaining above you. Although the climbing from here to the chains is much easier the sequences and position could not be more engaging and amazing as you continue to climb the pillar that protrudes from the rest of the wall all the way to the chains.
This is easily in the running for best low end 5.13 in Tensleep Canyon. DO THIS CLIMB !
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