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Spearhead Left Side
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D 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: RodrigoB on May 30, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The top portion of the climb.

Description 

Climb up a block and crack that constricts as you climb. It traverses right to meet with the anchors of the climb a few feet to the left. A nice, short gear climb with good protection.

Location 

The short gear climb that starts on a block a few feet to the right of the bolted off-width.

Protection 

Everything up to and including a #5 C4 could be placed but a small rack up to 3" is sufficient. The top portion protects with a variety of finger-sized pro while the bottom will take a variety of hand- to fist-sized cams.


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By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Aug 8, 2016

I didn't have a rack, so I just did this a TR after leading the off width (big swing potential, not recommended if near your limit). I found some choss in a hand jamming section and one flake of questionable quality. There is definitely solid gear throughout though, just check it before you place a cam. Interesting route, fun mix of jamming and face moves, really gets interesting as you step out left at the top.

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