REI Community
search
Sign Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'D' Route T 
Black Powder T 
C T 
Daniel's Variation T 
Great Escape, The T 
Hard Up T 
Hard Up Direct T 
Hard Way Up, The TR 
Hard-On T 
Sign Route T 
Space Walk T 

'D' Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,485
Submitted By: John Ely on May 24, 2013  with updates from Conrad S.

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Rob Savoye leading D Climb in 1979 with Ed Bollack...

Description 

The start is obvious -- near a tier of jagged blocky ledges. Climb past these along the large corner above. The cleanest route climbs on the rampy face to the slight right of the vegetated corner.

Pitch one to a big tree on a big ledge about 100' up. Pitch two climbs the slot/chimney directly above to a bolted anchor. A third optional fourth class pitch takes one to the top for a great view. A steep vegetated walk down is possible a hundred yards or so to the north (left). Alternately skip the last pitch and rap from the tree to the bolts and then down (but note warnings from those who have both gotten their rope stuck and missed the view).

Location 

About 25 yards up and left of the "hard up" route in the corner that forms the left side of the 'Sign Face.'

Protection 

Big tree anchor at top of first pitch; bolt anchor for second pitch; bring usual rack for protection between the anchors. Mostly solid rock, but use care in places.


Photos of 'D' Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor at the top of pitch 3 where Hard-Up Direct ...
BETA PHOTO: Anchor at the top of pitch 3 where Hard-Up Direct ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Maryland Heights are vegetated, and of mediocre ro...
Maryland Heights are vegetated, and of mediocre ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: This rope leads through the slot on the second pit...
This rope leads through the slot on the second pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Butt shot of the crux slot on second pitch. Good g...
BETA PHOTO: Butt shot of the crux slot on second pitch. Good g...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the 'D' Route follows the corner past...
BETA PHOTO: The start of the 'D' Route follows the corner past...
Rock Climbing Photo: 'D' Route on Maryland Heights. A view of the first...
BETA PHOTO: 'D' Route on Maryland Heights. A view of the first...

Comments on 'D' Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Ely
From: DC
May 24, 2013

The Horst Guide calls this 5.4. The second pitch slot felt a little harder to me, say 5.5
By Davith
From: MD
Jul 15, 2013

Can't wait to check this climb off my list. It looks like a good way to start off long trad climb.
By MealyM Mealy
From: Frankfurt
Oct 21, 2013

Recommend the leader not carry a pack on p2 in order to fit into the slot. Also, I found having a #3 and #4 helpful at a couple spots.
By Shop tech
From: Golden, CO
Jul 18, 2014

Climbing it with my 60 something year old dad, first twenty feet was the crux for me. For the first piece, I found a bomber BD #10 hex sideways in a slot above the scramble start.

Oh, Bolts are at the top of the second pitch, not the first... Tree anchor at the top of first pitch.

Hope you're good at yelling 'rock' before you get to the top of the first pitch.
By Maitreya Sriram
Nov 9, 2015

Climbed this in two pitches on a bluebird day this past Sunday since a couple (with an adorable and super friendly pitbull) was already on Hard Up.

P1 goes up the ramp on good holds but mediocre protection until the first large ledge. Mind the choss and belay from the tree.

P2 is great fun with a slightly tricky slot chimney with great pro to a bolted anchor. Great photos if you can get get 'em. The two pitches can probably be combined with a 70m if you don't mind some drag on the top belay.

Descent: We scrambled to the summit and walked off for the cardio, but the rap rings and bolts looked solid.
By Robert Michael
Nov 12, 2015

Climbed this early on a September Saturday with my 10-year-old son as my second.

I agree with the commenter saying the first 20' or so is the crux. It wasn't hard, but there wasn't good pro and the rock felt a little slick, maybe from humidity.

I also agree with the person saying that the bolts are above the second pitch and the big tree belay is atop the first. It's more than a matter of agreeing; it's fact.

Not a knock on the guy who put up this page in the first place. He has a lot of good beta here and on other sites. He just made a goof here.
By Tyler Smith 2
Dec 31, 2015

Just climbed this route today and it's super awesome!! Bring lots of slings to reduce rope drag. I found the crux to be the start of the first pitch and then the move to get into the chimney. Also I think it's worth mentioning that the second pitch is only like 30ft long, but I would still recommend doing this climb in two pitches.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Nov 19, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Although you can reach the ground in a single rappel over Hard Up using two 60m ropes, I strongly recommend against this option. I did this climb two weeks ago and did a single rappel (over Hard Up on the Sign Wall) using two 60m 8.5mm double ropes. It was almost impossible to pull the ropes because of the friction caused by the location of the rap rings relative to the edge of the cliff. Today I did this climb again, doing a single rappel (again, over Hard Up on the Sign Wall) with two 60m, 9.5mm single ropes. This time, the extra weight of the ropes and extra friction made it in fact impossible to pull them. Even if climbing with two 60m ropes, I recommend either topping out and walking off, or doing two single rope rappels, and preferably rappelling over the "D" route instead over Hard Up. The location of the bolted rap rings at the top of the chimney pitch makes pulling the ropes very difficult, even if pulling a single rope, if you rappel down Hard Up.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About