REI Community
The Country
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angora Grotto T,S 
Big Science T 
Climax Control S 
Cream of the Country T 
Crowbar T,S 
Cunning Stunt S 
D is for Dictory T,S 
Fifth Force S 
Fool's Gold T 
Frank Presley S 
GM Route T 
Hairway to Stephen S 
Heart of the Country T 
Heironymous Bosch T 
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 
Kite Flying Blind S 
Leave My Face Alone S 
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 
Mourning Star T 
Patrick's Flake T 
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 
Right Ventricle T,S 
Savage Gardens T 
Scientific Americans T 
Spooner S 
SS Ultrabrutal T 
Steel Monkey T 
Total Seawash Calypso S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Wham S 
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 
Wipe T 
Zoom T 

D is for Dictory 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker
Page Views: 1,078
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking up at the shallow corner to the alcove.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


This begins with the start of Fool's Gold. After climbing the large flake at the bottom (either side), face climb up and right past two bolts (includes a fun mantle move) to a large orangish flake with rippled rock texture. Jam and layback the left side to the top of the flake, then do a few power moves left to the shallow corner (perhaps the crux) and go up the corner past two more bolts. Near the top, there is another cruxy move involving a palmy layback. Belay or lower from the chains in the alcove.


Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. You can barely lower to the start with a 60-m rope.


Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.

After the first two face bolts, you need small wires, a finger-sized cam to protect the upper traverse left (possibly the crux), and a few cams to 2.5" for the gold flake. Four bolts total.

Photos of D is for Dictory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the upper cruxy layback section, taken fro...
BETA PHOTO: View of the upper cruxy layback section, taken fro...

Comments on D is for Dictory Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Schmitt
Jul 21, 2013

Now that the start has been cleaned up, this is a fantastic route! The 5.9 starting option can be well protected with one each of #4 and #5 camalots (or avoided by soloing the left side of the flake at 5.4). Thereafter, you don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot. A small nut (e.g. HB #6 offset) can be placed between the two bolts on the upper section. All the bolts and the anchor are solid as of 7/13.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 25, 2013

A big thanks to Derek Pearson for cleaning this one up and replacing bolts.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 26, 2013

Oh I only added one at the top of the flake . I never got around to doing the rest. I think mike did it .

Mike, where the two bolts are that protect the mantle move to get to the crack , I wanted to move that clip up higher so it protects the move better . And did you replace the carabiniers with links at the anchor ? Moving from the top of the flake left I wanted to add a bolt there . And then reposition the next two bolts .

This one of my favorite climbs . Thanks Jon for the props but I'm not responsible for the all work it seems there are a few people that like to help with route clean up.
By Mike Schmitt
Aug 7, 2013

It would be great to reposition the bolts to have one protect the moves leading into the mantle, and also have a high one at the mantle. I actually avoided the mantle move by climbing right, then up, then left. I personally have not replaced any bolts/biners on the route, but all the hardware seemed to be in decent shape.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 5, 2014

My partner and I thought the crux was moving from the gold flake into the corner. The layback moves up to the anchor are more insecure, but seemed easier.

Yet the guidebook shows the lower move off the gold flake as just 5.10. Were we doing it wrong? What do others think?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About