All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Country Area > (c) The Country

D is for Dictory

Name: D is for Dictory
Rating: 3.2

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in (c) The Country

L › R R › L A › Z

	Angora Grotto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Butters Ate My Sandwich S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c C1
	Climax Control S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fifth Force S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	G is for Giners T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hieronymus Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Indextasy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Kaboom aka Jesus take the wheel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Last Man Standing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Leave My Flake Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mr. Whippets S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c C0-1
	Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
	Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Science Fiction T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Scoop, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Uptight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker
Page Views:	3,152 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

This begins with the start of Fool's Gold. After climbing the large flake at the bottom (either side), face climb up and right past two bolts (includes a fun mantle move) to a large orangish flake with rippled rock texture. Jam and layback the left side to the top of the flake, then do a few power moves left to the shallow corner (perhaps the crux) and go up the corner past two more bolts. Near the top, there is another cruxy move involving a palmy layback. Belay or lower from the chains in the alcove.

Location

Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. You can barely lower to the start with a 60-m rope.

Protection

Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.

After the first two face bolts, you need small wires, a finger-sized cam to protect the upper traverse left (possibly the crux), and a few cams to 2.5" for the gold flake. Four bolts total.