REI Community
Lower Mother's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alex's Tower T 
Another Unnamed Route T 
Cow-a-Bunga T 
Cymbeline T 
Fine Line, A T 
Guide's Route T 
Lord of Wisdom, The T 
Mint Jam T 
No Name Route T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Unknown Semi OW T 
Welcoming Party T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cymbeline 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Skyeler Congdon-Roped Solo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on May 15, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The start of Cymbeline.

Description 

This is an independent start that links several of Cow-a-bunga's harder variations. It shares no climbing with any other established route, but the top third has been climbed before.

Cymbeline is a dramatic climb in five acts: Make bouldery moves off the ground up and right aiming for a small ledge (potentially PG-13). From the ledge, climb the right side splitter of a tornado-shaped feature, reaching another small stance. Step right and climb a clean, fingers-to-hands splitter. Move right and join Cow-a-bunga's 5.9 variation: double finger cracks. This ends at a pair of bolts- where a TR is possible with a 60m rope. I continued up from here, climbing the clean fist/OW corner to the top of the buttress.

Although ledgy and not sustained, the climbing on this route was fun and varied. This route is comparable to The Lord of Wisdom in difficulty, maybe a letter grade harder but less sustained.

FWIW, this route was done ground-up and solo using a Gri-gri.

Location 

The new approach trail brings you directly to the start of this climb. It begins 10 feet left of the only tree at the base of the cliff, and 5 feet right of "Another Unnamed Route."

Protection 

Singles from 00 TCU to a #3 Camalot. A #9 DMM offset protects the upper crux.


Photos of Cymbeline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Note the obvious "tornado" crack. Cymbel...
BETA PHOTO: Note the obvious "tornado" crack. Cymbel...

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