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Cutting Out 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson
Season: anytime the road is open
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Furthermore on May 10, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Cutting Out.

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Description 

Climb the overhanging bulge on the left side of the prow. I found the crux a bit burly and tricky but well-protected. A second easier crux is found near the top. Make sure not to cut too far left onto ?Fintastic?.

Location 

This is the bolted line just right of Fintastic.

Protection 

9? quickdraws plus something for the anchors.


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By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jul 7, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think this route has 9 bolts plus anchors. Getting to the 2nd bolt could be tricky if you're short. I'm 5'7 with 0 ape index, and I had to get my feet as high as I could on the ramp below just to barely hit the good hold on my tippy toes. If you're shorter than me, you may need to pull on some small sidepulls and work some smeary feet. Blowing the move here probably has groundfall potential if your belayer is not paying attention.

The crux of this route is pretty tricky. It took me a few tries to finally figure out a sequence that works for me. I can see this as a crux that different climbers have different solutions for. Mine involved sidepulls, heelhooks, really bad crimps, deadpoint to underclings, opposition and body tension, and a desperate throw to a jug (not necessarily in that order). Fun!

But don't let your guard down yet, before the anchors there is another section of thin moves that felt pretty hard (in a different way). Luckily you get a really good rest before moving into this final section.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 7, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ha ha, yeah, you gotta change gears a bit for the finish. I remember my toes being smoked at the end of the day up there and really wishing I could get it over with more quickly.

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