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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route takes an amazing right-trending dike feature across the far left side of the Black Velvet Wall. Approach it by scrambling up along the base of the wall, past the start of Refried Brains and a large boulder and a smaller boulder leaning against the wall. Begin on a two foot high pedestal at the base of a perfect finger crack in a corner.
Climb up via perfect locks to a ledge and no-hands rest. Place some small gear here (a blue and red Alien are perfect), then begin the very long, very pumpy rising hand traverse. Initially climb up to a good stance at a large pod that accepts a #3 Camalot, then continue hand traversing to another slot that accepts bomber finger sized gear, and finally punch it past three widely-spaced bolts to the anchor. Kinda scary with all the heelhooking over your rope and star drive bolts, but a completely unique feature for Red Rocks.
Three or four yellow TCU sized pieces and two or three 0.5 Camalots for the initial crack (save one or two for the final gear placement on the traverse). A tiny piece (blue Alien or purple TCU), A #3 Camalot, a 0.5 Camalot, and three draws are all you need for the business. The 3 bolts are old star drives which do not inspire confidence, but they appear to be in good shape.
Super route , need to change the anchors
By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Took a good tumbling fall today at about the worst place, just before the second bolt on the traverse. Bolts are fine. ;) Should have read closer, "Well spaced bolts".
By Jorge Jordan
May 26, 2016
Final anchors on this didn't inspire confidence. 1 wiggly + 1 star drive.
By yann gauthier
Apr 22, 2017
Super nice route but all the bolt are spinning and the anchors need to be replace.
Must do pitch :)