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Custer's Cutoff 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Allen and Becky Sanderson Aug 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 29
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 30, 2008

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Description 

Like any cutoff route taking it will lead to an easier passage but getting there may be fraught danger. This route is no different.

Boulder up the ramp to a shallow weakness in the headwall. The headwall is the crux (5.10) as there is scant pro albeit a small TCU placement along a vertical flake midway up. If you blow it, good chance that the landing on the ramp below will be hard. At the top one can reach a bomber crack that takes good pro. Use a long sling as the route now cuts off to the right on very positive holds (5.10). Above lies a very nice layback crack that leads to a short dihedral (5.7). The ramp adjacent to the lieback crack can be slick.

Location 

See the topo photo

Protection 

Small cams up to 1.5"


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