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Cuss Terr's Last Stand 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Terri Condon and Tony Sartin (Summer 2008)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: terri condon on Mar 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Plenty of thin, technical climbing on this one, with an exciting yet well protected mantle at the anchor.


This route is between Coven and The Becky Route, climbing just left of the chimney.


10 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor lower off.

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By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Have something against short people? This is a good climb but with a flawed ending. If you are 5'11" you have a easy 5.9 mantle to grab the anchor (and you will). If you are 5'7" or below you are in for a really hard and bold time. I'm 5'8" and I thought the move was harder than the 11b "crux" midway up the climb. This wouldn't be that big of a deal except the last bolt protecting that move is well under your feet. This creates an artificial height dependent difficulty (and fall) on a top down climb - kind of an ethical issue, yes? This ending could be fixed for all climbers by extending the anchors another 6 inches or so. Fix the end, then everyone has the same range of options.

I'll do the climb again, it's a nice one, but I'll be taking some kind of extendo draw to fifi the anchor from the positive position tall climbers get to enjoy.
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 15, 2011

Ditto. Contrived last move. Not to mention the rope gets stuck behind your foot while trying to mantle if you are not careful. I was able to clip the anchor without grabbing them at 5'7" but it was not fun.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 15, 2011

I disagree with others. I think the last move makes the climb better. I think the point is to clip the anchor without grabbing the chains. Height is irrelevant. If you can't do this, work on your flexibility. It's not that hard, just my opinion.
By terri condon
Aug 13, 2013

We recently added a bolt between the last bolt and the anchor to make the mantle move less intimidating. Cheers.
By Vlad S
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I finished the climb on the arete out right and didn't touch the chalked holds right below the anchor until I stood on them later. It was pretty easy that way, you can still clip the last bolt and the anchor no matter how tall you are. Fun route!
By Short Fall Sean
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 14, 2015

Not the best route on the wall, but still plenty of fun. I finished the climb like Vlad did, moving out onto the arete and then back toward the anchor. This looked easier than going straight up, especially since you can stand on a little ledge on the arete for as long as you want before doing the last moves. Still seemed like 11b was the right grade though.

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