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Curve Grande 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1 [details]
FA: Steve Shea and Dick Jimmerson, 1969
Page Views: 986
Submitted By: paco on Oct 1, 2003

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  • Description 

    Curve Grande is an obscure aid line which starts with Dalke Covington and joins The Nose route and then Firebird to finish. brought all the aid trickery for this old A4 route but it ended up going clean at C1, maybe C1+.

    P1 and 2 5.5- climb the first two pitches Dalke-Covington and set up a belay when the obvious cracks and overlap flake of CG are seen up and left.

    P2 C1- freeclimb easy rock out left and aid up a short corner and then across the overlap which holds a short thin crux. continue over the bulge with small nuts and RPs and up the crack to a pin and bolt belay on the 4th pitch of The Nose.

    P3 C1+ rotten- pendulum left to a rotten, white crack and aid to the security of the C1 roof of Firebird. a short lead.

    P4 5.6- climb the last pitch of Firebird to the big ledge. from here rap the nose rap route or continue to the summit.


    Bring the standard Lumpy aid rack: RPs, doubles nuts, doubles 00-TCU to #3 Camalot, and one #4 Camalot. No trickery involved.

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