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YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Kelly Baldwin and two geeks from Tucson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 13, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


Start just right of Ben Dover. Climb a thin flake making somewhat tedious moves past two bolts. Gain a nice stance and follow the line of bolts to the anchor. Great climbing on good rock.


Five clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.

Comments on Curtlovesugly Add Comment
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By Hillary Davis
Jun 17, 2005

Was it something I said?

Whatever. Bob still wishes he could climb as fast as me. I AM the toprope queen!

-Hillary "Geek" Davis (can't sign on?)
By Curt Shannon
Apr 20, 2007


Sep 7, 2009

Perhaps I missed something, but pulling past the second bolt is a long tenuous reach that seamed much harder than anything on Bye, Bye Butterfly.
By Nick Barczak
Apr 30, 2013

The climbing up to the second bolt felt as hard as Bye Bye Butterfly. After that, it's about 5.10 to the anchors. Not the best quality rock up high. Be careful not to rip off the flake around the 4th bolt.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jun 4, 2014

The first 2 bolts definitely seemed a bit harder than Bye Bye; however, you're rewarded with juggy .8 to the top afterwards!
By cyclestupor
From: Woodland Park, Colorado
May 8, 2017

According to the guidebook, this route shares anchors with "Ben Dover". However, the "Ben Dover" anchor is quite far to the left of the last bolt on "Curtlovesugly" and sets you up for a pendulum. I found it more natural to just go nearly straight up from the last bolt to reach the "Bye, Bye Butterfly" anchor instead.

As Nick mentioned, there is a really hollow sounding, loose flake around the 4th bolt. Fortunately, you don't need to touch this flake, and it doesn't make the climb any harder.

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