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Curly for President 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 3,155
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (126)
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This climb is much better than the surrounding sla...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


A cool 5.9 face climb.

Start to the right of the big oak tree. Start on low angle rock that might still be a litte dirty lichen but is nice to climb on. make your way to where the rock steepens and find a sequence through the crux face leading to an anchor.

This one doesnt go to the top of the cliff


At the left end of the crag starting near the stair case to the meadows. climbs right of the big oak tree.


8 Bolts to anchor.

Photos of Curly for President Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt topped out with water flowing- climb was dry ...
Matt topped out with water flowing- climb was dry ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Techin' through it.
Techin' through it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on the middle, steeper section.
Chris on the middle, steeper section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Franklin chalking up for the business.
Franklin chalking up for the business.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt rigging a rappel on Curly for President. Bolt...
Matt rigging a rappel on Curly for President. Bolt...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2012
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 17, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Such a fine line that doesn't seem to suffer from the meadows/parking lot wall climber-infestation. Nice and shadey on hot days too.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is route is fantastic, it is also nice because if it looks a little damp you can still climb it because the holds are that positive and there are a variety of other positive holds. Great route.
By jcullem
Nov 22, 2009

A really nice addition to the cliff. Quality steep climbing once you get into the business.
Never desperate and at its grade, but makes you think a bit, particularly the last moves to the anchors. Generally does not get soaked like some of the neighboring routes, but the last part can be a bit wet. A must do for the 5.9 climber.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Jun 6, 2011

This is super fun. GET ON THIS.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
May 11, 2012

The location says left end of the crag near the stairs to the meadows... I assume that means the left end of the parking lot wall?
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 11, 2012

You're correct. It looks like this route was once located in The Parking Lot area. I'm sure an administrator will update the description, but in the time being check out this Photo for reference.
By S. Neoh
May 11, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Perhaps we should have both Curly and Idiot's Deluxe as part of Parking Lot Wall.
By J Meagher
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'm looking for a route for a first 5.9 at Rumney, is this a good choice? I've done hippos on parade at the meadows, are the two similar, and is there any beta I should be aware of?
By S. Neoh
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe this and Hippos climb quite differently. The crux of this one is near the top so make sure you have reserve left in the tank before gunning for the anchors. Good luck.

Egg McMeadows, War and Peace, Yoda, and Obiwan Ryobi are all good 5.9 routes just in case you are wondering. All of which I feel are quite a bit harder than this route.
By J Meagher
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Okay, thanks. Is there any bad fall potential (from a beginner's viewpoint), or is it overhanging enough where falling feels safe?

I've also been considering couch potato at below the new wave, which would you reccomend?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 24, 2012

Couch Potato can feel a little burly the first time you are on it, but there are lots of rests if you take the time to figure them out. Obi has a couple clips that you don't want to blow. Egg would be good if you don't mind crimping. War and Peace is probably my favorite quality wise of the ones S. Neoh listed. If it is at your current limit, and you are not so tall, maybe get somebody to pre-place the draws. Couch is my route, but I think Curly is nicer.
By S. Neoh
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The opening moves on Couch P are very hard for me (being a shortie). Definitely stick-clip the 1st bolt. I also like W&P best of those I have listed. Actually, Hippos is a 5.9 so if you have led that, then you have gotten your 1st Rumney .9. Congrats.

One 5.9 that I like very much but might be quite intimidating and burly for one's first .9 is Left El Diego. At the same crag, Trigger Happy (also .9) is pretty good but the opening moves are somewhat insecure and the face climbing gets quite technical higher up.

Here are two .8+ routes which you should not miss doing; Junco and Metamorphosis. The latter is one of my fave at Rumney. Great cleaning and bolting job, Mark.

Edit to add: Men in White Suits was my 1st Rumney .9 BITD. Only an OK route, burly near the top; we did not have a lot of choices when it came to moderates 20 years ago.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 24, 2012

As much as some people say it stinks! I like Your Anus 5.9 :) haha
all anus jokes aside...
really, a safe fun route that isn't super hard in the grade...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 25, 2012

After the initial bouldery moves, B-B-Buttress is a great climb. Get on it! Men In White Suits isn't too bad either.
By J Meagher
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Okay, thanks for all the advice! I think I'll go for curly and maybe mcmeadows this weekend as long as the weather holds up
By S. Neoh
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did you send either/both?
Conditions were close to perfect today unless you were in direct sun; too hot in that case.

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