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Cunning Stunt 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Nancy McNeil
Page Views: 1,706
Submitted By: John Parnigoni on Jun 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Stunning indeed. Photo: Kuba Musial, August 2014.

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  • Description 

    This route can be used as a variation to the West Buttress overhang. It starts with a perfect hand crack in a left-facing flake and opens up to 4-4.5" that makes for an easy layback. The crux is half way up the crack. After the crack, the route traverses right to a pin and then up diagonally left followed by two more pins to the Crow's Nest. The "S" really only comes into play after the traverse section. The 11a section (the crack) can be sewn up.
    We used double ropes and 2' slings on almost every piece to reduce rope drag.

    Location 

    This route starts on the North side of the Maiden downhill and left of the Direct North Face route.

    Protection 

    Up to #4 Camalot. 3 pins. Eye bolt at the Crow's Nest.


    Comments on Cunning Stunt Add Comment
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    By John Parnigoni
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 4, 2006

    The crux section is short and fun. If your good at jamming cracks, you'll find this to be an easier 11.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2007
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    It is not even hard for 5.10...
    11a routes are hard, but this route is not. As my partner, who on-sighted it said: "That could go 5.9 in Vedauvoo." The R-part is not going through the roof on P2, it is getting to the right, to join it.
    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2007

    I've also heard that guy say "Nothing you can fit your whole hand inside can possibly be harder than 5.9" as well, so you might want to take that with a grain of salt.
    By Devan Johnson
    Aug 31, 2014

    Probably the best way to get to the Crow's Nest. The run out after the initial excellent crack definitely had my full attention.

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