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Cunning Linguist 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Matt Robertson, 7/04
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Nate Ball on May 8, 2013

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Peihua Wu sending over an azure sea Photo by Matt...

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This is one of Long Dong's most classic thin cracks. Start at the main deck of the Cathouse, just outside the cave. Climb the slighty overhanging south-facing wall split by horizontals to the obvious ledge above. The challenges start early, with tricky protection and strenuous laybacking to the first small ledge. Mantel up, then scramble through easier ground as the crack shrinks up to the big middle ledge. Sharp holds and balancy moves get you off this ledge to some slopey horizontals. A final section of laybacking gains you some positive face holds. A short series of mantels and you are at the rappel ledge.

BEWARE! Wasps have made a nest (6/1/13) in one of the horizontals and stung someone. It was very minor, but better safe than sorry.


Outside the aretes of BA Insanity, left of Love You Long Time arete


Gear to 1.5" (2x 1")
Titanium anchors (2016)

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