Culo De Gato Rock Climbing
Lucie on the Tyrolean traverse on Crescent Moon Bu...
The Culo is a cliff located about a half-hour's drive from Potrero Chico and is home to a sizable cave and routes that are a bit steeper than most of the Potrero fair. Climbs tend toward the more difficult side of the grade spectrum.
There is however a handful of easier routes as well, and supposedly the multipitch "Crescent Moon Buttress" is quite good. There are also some futuristic looking projects that travel up the headwall above the center of the cave. All in all it's worth a trip if you're bored at the Potrero, especially if you need some shade in the winter.
Drive out of Hidalgo and turn north on 53 (away from Monterrey). After about ten minutes on this road, you'll see the town of Mina off to the left, including a sign and a turn for the town. Continue past this turn, and once past the town itself look for an obvious PEMEX station on the left. Take a sharp lefthand turn just before this gas station and follow this road straight west for awhile (the cliffs are obvious off to the NW). This road starts out paved, then turns to a well-graded gravel road. It descends into an arroyo, back out, past a chicken farm on the left and a railroad crossing. Shortly afterwards, turn right (back north) and a mile or so later keep your eyes peeled for a cairn on the left which marks a double-track road that leads up to the base of the Culo. If you park at this turn, the hike is roughly 25 minutes. If you drive all the way in (moderate clearance required), the hike is a steep 15 minutes. The trail deposits you at the righthand edge of the cave and the route "Los Cuervos."
Weather station 1.6 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Culo De Gato
Los Cuervos 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b North America
: ... : Culo De Gato
Begin by a tree near the wall on the right side of the cave. This is right where the trail meets the wall. Climb up some steep, burly moves to a series of ledges formed by flakes. These afford a good rest, but the wall is still steep. Above is an upper crux of sustained, thin climbing. This is a great route with immaculate rock continuously difficult climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in International
By Ed Wright
Mar 28, 2011
This review does not do the place justice. If the Culo del Gato (officially Las Ventanas de Mina) were in the USA it would be a major destination with 500 routes--here it's just a little 8-pitch bump on the landscape.
Crescent Moon Buttress is a great climb, not just supposedly. It's prolly the best climb you'll ever do on mediocre rock--after the first pitch it's either really loose or really sharp. But it's a lot of fun with unusual rock formations, a tyrolean traverse and a pendulum.
This place is definitely worth checking out--not just if you're bored at the Potrero. In fact, if you're bored at the Potrero there is something seriously wrong with you and you might as well quit climbing.